The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attireAnonymous
Philosophy
The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire
Anonymous
Clothing and dress -- Patterns; Millinery -- Patterns; Needlework -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.; Sewing -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
MANTELET.--In the making of this useful and favorite article of ladies’
attire, there is much variety in the materials employed. They are
sometimes made of shawling, but more commonly of silk, satin, cloth,
velvet, and merino. The mantelet comes down nearly to the knee, and is
lined either with silk or muslin, and occasionally with glazed cotton
cloth. The shape is that of the cape of a cloak, and should be cut by
a pattern to insure accuracy; five breadths of the material will be
required, and the neck is hollowed to make it fit comfortably; it can
be either gathered into a band or set on to a collar. In the latter
case, the collar must be made to turn over. You trim the mantelet in
any manner you think the most becoming, with velvet, satin, or fur;
or it may be trimmed with either fringe or lace. It is neat, and very
convenient for a lady, either for a short walk, or as a part of a
summer’s evening dress; in the latter case, the material and lining
should be as light as possible.
LADIES’ SILK CLOAK.--Choose a silk that is of a color not liable to
fade, of which six breadths are required, and the width of the cloak
is five breadths; the length is, of course, made according to the
height of the person who is to wear it. You cut the shoulder pieces
first in paper, taking a cloak already made for your guide, and having
fitted them exactly to the person, lay the paper upon the lining, and
cut it out; the silk is cut out by the lining; and be careful to leave
sufficient for the turnings in. Prepare the collar in the same way,
pointed at the corners and slanting toward the neck; the collar is
hollowed out at the top from the front corners, to a sufficient depth
behind, to insure its falling gracefully over the shoulders and back.
It is lined with silk, between which and the outside stiff muslin is
to be introduced. The shoulder pieces are to have flannel or wadding
between the silk lining and the material. Those who have no cloak at
hand from which to take a pattern for the shoulder pieces, may obtain
one by the following simple method: Take a piece of thin paper, and cut
it in the shape of a round collar; hollow it out at the top, until it
will lie over the shoulders perfectly straight and close.
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