The Lake of LucerneMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Lake of Lucerne
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Lucerne Lake (Switzerland)
Thus William Tell, like Arnold von Winkelried, recedes into the dim
borderland of legend and history. After all, it is no irreparable
loss. The individual Arnold, the individual Tell, were units merely of
the great company of authentic, unnamed heroes who smote the Austrian
tyrant at Sempach and Morgarten, who triumphed against the Burgundian
at Grandson, Morat, and Nancy.
The third division, in still ascending scale of mountain grandeur,
of the Lake of the Four Forest Cantons is that which extends
south-westward from the intersection of the cross, and is
known--certainly towards its extremity, and perhaps throughout its
length--from the little village at its head as the Lake of Alpnach.
Here the general effect is more definitely mountainous than that which
has awaited us in sailing the two previous compartments: Rigi is now
exchanged for Pilatus as the presiding genius and dominant monarch of
the scene; whilst the Alps of Unterwalden, and, beyond the low pass of
the Brünig, the greater Alps of the Berner Oberland--the triple Maiden,
Monk, and Giant--the Peak of Storms, and the Peak of Shrieking--at last
supply that mountain background which everyone must have missed when
looking up the water towards Küssnacht or Lucerne. The Oberland giants,
it is true, are set at too great distance to impress the eye, however
much they may affect the imagination, with the same sense of impending
mountain majesty as we find in the Bay of Uri; but Pilatus and the
Stanserhorn are both immediate and splendid objects; whilst even the
dark, pine-clad crags of the little Bürgenstock, which is literally,
like Catullus' Sermio, "all-but-island"--for it needs but the raising
of the lake a very few feet, and the consequent flooding of the low
isthmus between Stans and Buochs, to complete its insulation--push out
into the lake with an assertive individuality that is wholly out of
keeping with their relatively insignificant height (actually less than
four thousand feet). Roughly half-way up, at a point where the lake is
narrowed to the dimensions of a river by the sudden, sharp intrusion of
the tall black cliffs of the Lopperberg (a footstool of Pilatus), the
strait thus strangely created is spanned across to Stanstad by an
ugly iron bridge. The crass utilitarianism, in fact, that mars, though
it cannot wholly disfigure, so much that is beautiful in Switzerland,
and that contributes so little to the honour of the modern Switzer
(however well it may fill his purse), is altogether painfully too
evident along the shores of this division of the Lake of Lucerne. The
hideous lines of electric wires along the margin of the lake are only
less detestable than those that degrade the Pass of Llanberis; this
bridge across the narrows is as ugly as may be; whilst Baedeker (with
his usual businesslike lack of romanticism) duly chronicles in a single
breath the presence of "water-falls and Portland cement factories" in
the neighbouring glen of the Rotzloch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account