all, than the lower slopes of Pilatus or Rigi. It is only, in fact, in the upland vales of Switzerland--at spots like the Grimsel Hospice, or towards the summits of passes like the Simplon or the Splügen--that the ordinary wanderer, who is not a climber, will realize that _abandon_ of wild and savage sterility that delights him in a hundred glens among the mountains of Scotland or Carnarvonshire, in Glen Sannox, or Glen Sligachan, in Llanberis, or Cwm Llydaw. The Bay of Uri is indeed majestic, and its framework of distant summits is indeed magnificently wild, yet not here, I think, shall we taste with Shelley the strange "Pleasure of believing what we see Is boundless, as we wish our souls to be." INDEX [The principal reference is given first.] Ahorn, Lukas, 21 Alpnach, Lake of, 41 Altdorf, 61, 40 Axenberg, the, 60 Axenfels, the, 57 Axenstrasse, the, 60 Beckenried, 53 Beromünster, 10 Bettelirüt, the, 49 Bone-houses, 48, 50 Bristenstock, the, 52, 61 Brünig Pass, 50 Brunnen, 57, 52 Bruder Klaus (see Flüe, Nicolas von der) Buochs, 53, 54 Bürgenstock, the, 42 Capuchin Friars, 32 Carlyle (quoted), 20 "Dance of Death," the, 18 Engelberg, 48, 44 Flüe, Nicolas von der, 46, 45, 49, 50 Flüelen, 61 Flühli, 46 Frackmünd, the, 24 Gersau, 54 Gesler, 37, 38, 40 Gesler's Castle, 37 Gesner, Conrad, 26 Goat-whey cure, 32 Hapsburgh, Dukes of, 54, 55 Hochfluh, the, 54 Hohenzollern, House of, 55 Hohle Gasse, the, 37 Ingrund, Heini, 46 Küsnacht, 36, 40 Küsnacht, Bay of, 34 Leopold, Duke, 53 Lopperberg, the, 42 Lowerz, Lake of, 38 Lucerne, 14-21, 53 Barfüsserkirche, 14 City Walls, 14 Gletscher Garten, 21 Hof-Brücke, 17 Hofkirche, 15, 16 Kapell-Brücke, 17, 18 Lion Monument, 20 Mühlen Brücke, 18 Quays, view from, 8, 21 Rathhaus, 14, 53 St. Peter's Kapel, 17 Spreuerbrücke, 18 Wasserturm, 17 Lucernersee, 53 Meggen, 35 Mountain railways, 33 Mythen, the, 55, 38, 53 Nasen, the, 53 Nidwalden, 44, 47 Nidwalden Aa, the, 44 Oberland, Berner, 42 Obwalden, 44 Obwalden Aa, the, 44 "Our Lady of the Snow," 31 Pilate, Pontius, 23 Pilatus, Mount, 23, 25, 30, 42, 53 Ramstein, Barons of, 54 Reuss, River, 17, 61 Rigi, 27, 23, 32, 38, 53 Rigi Klösterli, 31 Rigi, view from, 32 Rossberg, the, 38 Rotzloch, the, 43 Rumligbach, the, 24 Ruskin (quoted), 8, 37 Rütli, the, 59 Sachseln, 50 St. Gothard Pass, 60, 61 St. Gothard Railway, 57, 60 St. Leodegar, 15, 17, 18 Sarnen, 44, 49 Sarnen, Lake of, 50 Scheuber, Conrad, 49, 51 Schwyz, 38, 56 Schwyz, Canton, 56, 61 Sempach, 12, 10, 41, 53, 55 Sempach, Lake of, 7, 10 Seelisberg, the, 57 Sisikon, 60 Sonnenberg, the, 59 Spannörter, the, 50 Stans, 47, 11, 44, 45, 46, 51 Stans, Convention of, 47 Stanserhorn, the, 42, 47