The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
Between these two extremes are the trading parties directed by the
Wasawahili, the Wamrima, and the slave Fundi--the Pombeiros of West
Africa--kindred souls with the Pagazi, understanding their languages and
familiar with their habits, manners, and customs. These “Safari” are
neither starved like those composed of Wanyamwezi, nor pampered like
those headed by the Arabs. There is less fatigue during the march, and
more comfort at the halting-place, consequently there are fewer cases of
disease and death. These semi-African Mtongi, hating and jealousing
Arabs and all strangers, throw every obstacle in their way, spread
reports concerning their magical and malevolent powers which are
dangerous amongst the more superstitious barbarians, they offer a
premium for desertion, and in fine, they labour hard though fruitlessly,
to retain their ancient monopoly of the profits derived from the
interior.
I will now describe the day’s march and the halt of the East African
caravan.
At 3 A.M., all is silent as the tomb, even the Mnyamwezi watchman nods
over his fire. About an hour later the red-faced apoplectic
chanticleer--there are sometimes half-a-dozen of them--the alarum of the
caravan, and a prime favourite with the slaves and porter, who carry him
on their banghy-poles by turns, and who drench him with water when his
beak opens under the sun,--flaps his wings and crows a loud salutation
to the dawn: he is answered by every cock and cockerel within ear-shot.
I have been lying awake for some time, longing for the light, and when
in health, for an early breakfast. At the first paling of the East, the
torpid Goanese are called up to build a fire, they tremble with the
cold--thermometrically averaging 60° F.--and they hurry to bring food.
Appetite somewhat difficult at this hour, demands a frequent change of
diet, we drink tea or coffee when procurable, or we eat rice-milk and
cakes raised with whey, or a porridge not unlike water-gruel. Whilst we
are so engaged, the Baloch chanting the spiritual songs which follow
prayers, squat round a cauldron placed upon a roaring fire, and fortify
the inner man with boiled meat and grain, with toasted pulse and
tobacco.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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