The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
About such time, 5 A.M., the camp is fairly roused, and a little low
chatting becomes audible. This is a critical moment. The porters have
promised overnight, to start early, and to make a long wholesome march.
But, “uncertain, coy, and hard to please,” they change their minds like
the fair sex, the cold morning makes them unlike the men of the warm
evening, and perhaps one of them has fever. Moreover, in every caravan
there is some lazy, loud-lunged, contradictory and unmanageable fellow,
whose sole delight is to give trouble. If no march be in prospect, they
sit obstinately before the fire warming their hands and feet, inhaling
the smoke with everted heads, and casting quizzical looks at their
fuming and fidgety employer. If all be unanimous, it is vain to attempt
them, even soft sawder is but “throwing comfits to cows.” We return to
our tent. If, however, there be a division, a little active stimulating
will cause a march. Then a louder conversation leads to cries of Kwecha!
Kwecha! Pakia! Pakia! Hopa! Hopa! Collect! pack! set out! Safari! Safari
leo! a journey, a journey to-day! and some peculiarly African boasts,
P’hunda! Ngami! I am an ass! a camel! accompanied by a roar of bawling
voices, drumming, whistling, piping, and the braying of Barghumi, or
horns. The sons of Ramji come in a body to throw our tents, and to
receive small burdens, which, if possible, they shirk; sometimes Kidogo
does me the honour to inquire the programme of the day. The porters,
however, hug the fire till driven from it, when they unstack the loads
piled before our tents and pour out of the camp or village. My companion
and I, when well enough to ride, mount our asses, led by the gunbearers,
who carry all necessaries for offence and defence; when unfit for
exercise, we are borne in hammocks, slung to long poles, and carried by
two men at a time. The Baloch tending their slaves hasten off in a
straggling body, thinking only of escaping an hour’s sun. The Jemadar,
however, is ordered to bring up the rear with Said bin Salim, who is
cold and surly, abusive and ready with his rattan. Four or five packs
have been left upon the ground by deserters, or shirkers, who have
started empty-handed, consequently our Arab either double-loads more
willing men, or persuades the sons of Ramji to carry a small parcel
each, or that failing, he hires from some near village a few porters by
the day. This, however, is not easy, the beads have been carried off,
and the most tempting promises without pre-payment, have no effect upon
the African mind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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