The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
The weary labour of verifying accounts and of writing receipts duly
concluded, I took a melancholy leave of my warm-hearted friend
Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, upon whose form and features death was written
in legible characters. He gave me his last advice, to march straight
ahead despising “walnut and velvet-slipper men,” who afford opinions,
and conciliating the Arabs as much as possible. Then he spoke of
himself: he looked forward to death with a feeling of delight, the
result of his religious convictions; he expressed a hope that if I
remained at Kaole, he might be buried at sea; and he declared himself,
in spite of my entreaties, determined to remain near the coast until he
heard of our safe transit through the lands of the dreaded Wazaramo.
This courage was indeed sublime! Such examples are not often met with
amongst men!
After this affecting farewell, I took leave of the Artémise and landed
definitively at Kaole. The Baloch driving the asses were sent off to the
first station on the road westwards, headed by my companion, on the same
evening, lest a longer sojourn in the lands of semi-civilisation should
thoroughly demoralise them. The Wanyamwezi porters, whose open faces and
laughing countenances strongly prepossessed me in their favour, had
already passed beyond their centre of attraction, the coast. I spent
that evening with Ladha Damha, inside the gloomy Gurayza. He lectured me
for the last time upon my development of what the French cartomantiste
calls “la bosse de la témérité.” Might not the Sahib be a great Sahib in
his own land--Cutch or Guzerat? Are there not other great Sahibs there,
A--Sahib and B--Sahib, for instance, who only kill pigs and ignore the
debtor and creditor side of an account in Guzeratee?
I must mention that, on the morning of the same day, I was present at a
conversation held by the Ladha, the respectable collector of the
customs, with the worthy Ramji, his clerk. I had insisted upon their
inserting in the estimate of necessaries the sum required to purchase a
boat upon the “Sea of Ujiji.”
“Will he ever reach it?” asked the respectable Ladha, conveying his
question through the medium of Cutchee, a dialect of which, with the
inconsequence of a Hindu, he assumed me to be profoundly ignorant.
“Of course not,” replied the worthy Ramji; “what is he that he should
pass through Ugogi?” (a province about half way.)
At the moment I respected their “sharm,” or shame, a leading organ in
the oriental brain, which apparently has dwindled to inconsequential
dimensions amongst the nations of the West. But when Ladha was alone, I
took the opportunity to inform him that I still intended to cross Ugogo,
and to explore the “Sea of Ujiji.” I ended by showing him that I was not
unacquainted with Cutchee, and even able to distinguish between the
debits and the credits of his voluminous sheets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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