The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
This lower portion of the Mgeta’s bed was unfordable after the heavy
rains: other caravans, however, had made a rude bridge of trees, felled
on each side, lashed with creepers, and jammed together by the force of
the current. The men perched upon the trunks and boughs, tossed or
handed to one another the loads and packages, whilst the asses, pushed
by force of arm down the banks, were driven with sticks and stones
across the stream. Suddenly a louder cry than usual arose from the mob;
my double-barrelled elephant-gun found a grave below the cold and
swirling waters. The Goanese Gaetano had the courage to plunge in; the
depth was about twelve feet; the sole was of roots and loose sand, and
the stream ran with considerable force. I bade farewell to that gun;--by
the bye it was the second accident of the kind that had occurred to
it;--the country people cannot dive, and no one ventures to affront the
_genius loci_, the mamba or crocodile. I found consolation in the
thought that the Expedition had passed without accident through the most
dangerous part of the journey. In 18 days, from the 27th of June, to the
14th of July, I had accomplished, despite sickness and all manner of
difficulties, a march of 118 indirect statute miles, and had entered
K’hutu, the safe rendezvous of foreign merchants.
Resuming our march on the 15th July, we entered the “Doab,”[5] on the
western bank of the Mgeta, where a thick and tangled jungle, with
luxuriant and putrescent vegetation, is backed by low, grassy grounds,
frequently inundated. Presently, however, the dense thicket opened out
into a fine park country, peculiarly rich in game, where the calabash
and the giant trees of the seaboard gave way to mimosas, gums, and
stunted thorns. Large gnus, whom the porters regard with a wholesome
awe, declaring that they are capable of charging a caravan, pranced
about, pawing the ground, and shaking their formidable manes; hartebeest
and other antelopes clustered together on the plain, or travelled in
herds to slake their thirst at the river. The homely cry of the
partridge resounded from the brake, and the guinea-fowls looked like
large bluebells upon the trees. Small land-crabs took refuge in the pits
and holes, which made the path a cause of frequent accidents; whilst
ants of various kinds, crossing the road in close columns, attacked man
and beast ferociously, causing the caravan to break into a halting,
trotting hobble, ludicrous to behold. Whilst crossing a sandy Fiumara,
Abdullah, a Baloch, lodged by accident four ounces of lead, the contents
of my second elephant-gun, in the head of an ass. After a march of six
hours we entered Kiruru, a small, ragged, and muddy village of Wak’hutu,
deep in a plantation of holcus, whose tall, stiff canes nearly swept me
from the saddle. The weather was a succession of raw mist, rain in
torrents, and fiery sunbursts; the land appeared rotten, and the jungle
smelt of death. At Kiruru I found a cottage, and enjoyed for the first
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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