The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
time an atmosphere of sweet warm smoke. My companion remained in the
reeking, miry tent, where he partially laid the foundation of the fever
which threatened his life in the mountains of Usagara.
[5] This useful word, which means the land embraced by the bifurcation
of two streams, has no English equivalent. “Doab,” “Dhun” (Dhoon),
“Nullah,” and “Ghaut,” might be naturalised with advantage in our
mother tongue.
Despite the danger of hyænas, leopards, and crocodiles to an
ass-caravan, we were delayed by the torrents of rain and the depth of
the mud for two days at Kiruru. According to the people, the district
derives its name “palm leaves,” from a thirsty traveller, who, not
knowing that water was near, chewed the leaves of the hyphæna-palm till
he died. One of the Baloch proposed a “Hammam,”--a primitive form of the
“lamp-bath,” practised in most parts of Central Asia,--as a cure for
fever: he placed me upon one of the dwarf stools used by the people, and
under the many abas or hair-cloaks with which I was invested he
introduced a bit of pottery containing live coal and a little
frankincense. At Kiruru I engaged six porters to assist our jaded
animals as far as the next station. The headman was civil, but the
people sold their grain with difficulty.
On the 18th July we resumed our march over a tract which caused sinking
of the heart in men who expected a long journey under similar
circumstances. Near Kiruru the thick grass and the humid vegetation,
dripping till midday with dew, rendered the black earth greasy and
slippery. The road became worse as we advanced over deep thick mire
interlaced with tree-roots through a dense jungle and forest, chiefly of
the distorted hyphæna-palm, in places varied by the Mparamusi and the
gigantic Msukulío, over barrens of low mimosa, and dreary savannahs cut
by steep nullahs. In three places we crossed bogs from 100 yards to a
mile in length, and admitting a man up to the knee; the porters plunged
through them like laden animals, and I was obliged to be held upon the
ass. This “Yegea Mud,” caused by want of water-shed after rain, is
sometimes neck-deep; it never dries except when the moisture has been
evaporated by sun and wind during the middle of the Kaskazi or N. E.
monsoon. The only redeeming feature in the view was a foreground of
lovely hill, the highlands of Dut’humi, plum-coloured in the distance
and at times gilt by a sudden outburst of sunshine. Towards the end of
the march, I forged ahead of the caravan, and passing through numerous
villages, surrounded by holcus-fields, arrived at a settlement tenanted
by Sayf bin Salim, an Arab merchant, who afterwards proved to be a
notorious “mauvais sujet.” A Harisi from Birkah in Oman, he was a tall
thin-featured venerable-looking man, whose old age had been hurried on
by his constancy to pombe-beer. A long residence in Unyamwezi had
enabled him to incur the hostility of his fellow-merchants, especially
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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