The Land Beyond the Forest: Facts, Figures, and Fancies from TransylvaniaGerard, E. (Emily)
History
The Land Beyond the Forest: Facts, Figures, and Fancies from Transylvania
Gerard, E. (Emily)
Transylvania (Romania) -- Description and travel
It was early in October, and a bright sunshiny day; the high-road
was crowded with carts and peasants coming to town, for it was
market-day; but after we had struck into a path across the fields the
way lay solitary before us. The village, which nestled against a bare
hill-side, was neither very picturesque nor interesting-looking; and as
we drew nearer I saw that it had a somewhat poverty-stricken aspect,
which considerably depressed my hopes of ceramic treasures. I had not
been aware that this hamlet, formerly a flourishing Saxon settlement,
had by degrees become flooded by the Roumanian element, and that the
Protestant church, for lack of a congregation, was now usually shut
up. Many of the people had German names, while speaking the Roumanian
language and wearing the Roumanian dress; and of all the inhabitants
four families only still professed the Lutheran faith. Intermarriage
with Roumanians, and the total extinction of many Saxon families, had
been the causes which had thus metamorphosed the national character of
the village.
Crossing a little bridge over the bed of a partially dried-up stream,
we entered the hamlet, where I forthwith began operations, proceeding
from house to house. At the very outset I found two pretty specimens
of china jugs in a gypsy hovel, but this was a solitary instance of
good-luck which had no sequel, for all the other huts could only
produce coarse Roumanian ware, very much inferior to Saxon pottery.
Our appearance in the village made a considerable sensation, and at
first we were slightly mobbed by all sorts of wild uncouth figures,
mostly gypsies; but luckily by degrees the interest wore off, and we
were left alone, but for one particularly villanous-looking man who
kept following at a little distance. Already I had been rather provoked
by several attempts to pick my pocket on the part of the gypsies, so
was on my guard, when, standing still to reflect where next to go, the
villanous-looking individual approached to accost me, and I could see
that his eyes were riveted on my gold watch-chain, which imprudently
I had left visible outside my jacket. These suspicions were presently
strengthened by his asking me what o’clock it was. “Look at your own
church clock,” I answered, rather shortly, pointing to the tower close
at hand; but he gave a roguish grin, and said, “Our clock is slow; I
wanted to set it right.”
I could not help laughing, though I did not feel quite easy in my mind,
and gave him the information he professed to want, but which of course
was only an excuse to look at my watch. I now tried to shake him off,
but my villanous friend was anxious to improve the acquaintance, and
would not leave me without having ascertained who I was, and what I
wanted here.
“Old china jugs!” he exclaimed, when somewhat weakly I had admitted my
errand. “I have got plenty such jugs, if the gracious lady will only
condescend to come into my house close by.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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