The Land of Desolation: Being a Personal Narrative of Observation and Adventure in GreenlandHayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel)
History
The Land of Desolation: Being a Personal Narrative of Observation and Adventure in Greenland
Hayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel)
Greenland -- Description and travel; Hayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel), 1832-1881
“Eh, tyma!” he answered; and off he started for the bridge, and off
soon started the _Panther_ under his direction.
Julianashaab we found to be no easy port to make, even with a marine
centaur for a pilot. The _Panther_ was twisted and turned about so
much among the islands, and our pilot spoke so strangely, and made
so many strange gestures, that he fairly turned the captain’s head.
The captain would indeed hardly believe that we were going anywhere
at all, but were, on the contrary, whirling about for the temporary
amusement of this creature whom we had fished up out of salt water.
The fact is, Julianashaab is some twenty miles from the sea, on the
bank of a very long and tortuous frith or fiord, which is studded
with islands. Difficult of access at all times, it is peculiarly so
in July, for then the ice from the Spitzbergen side of Greenland
comes drifting down with the great polar current, a branch of which
sweeps around Cape Farewell into Davis’s Strait and Baffin’s Bay, and
proceeds north for a while before it is deflected to the westward to
join the ice-incumbered stream that chills the region of Labrador,
and bathes the coast of America even to the Floridas. Cape Farewell
is in latitude 59° 49´, and Julianashaab lies some eighty miles to
the north and west of it; that is to say, in latitude 60° 44´, or 5°
48´ south of the Arctic circle. It is not, therefore, much nearer the
North Pole than St. Petersburg, Russia, though in a very different
climate.
It was fortunate that we secured even this strange pilot when we
did, else we should have lain outside all the night; for there was a
night, even although it was scarce deserving the name. When one can
plainly see to read by the light of the sun as late as ten o’clock
P.M., there is not much of a night to boast of. There was a faint
twilight even at midnight, and to this was added the light of the
moon, which threw its brightness on the summits of the snow-clad
mountains, and trailed its silvery splendors away over the rippled
waters of the fiord.
The scene as we passed on was most impressive. There is indeed in
a still arctic night, whether in the winter or summer, a sublimity
which one does not feel in a night elsewhere. We passed through many
groups of icebergs, and in the moonlight their shapes, at all times
full of strange suggestions, were converted into objects of the most
fantastic description. The faces and forms of men and beasts were
fashioned there in the light and shadow of the night, occasionally
with wonderful distinctness. As we passed on, we were sometimes in
the cold shelter of a cliff, while the icebergs before us glittered
in a full blaze of light, as if they were mammoth gems; again we
would pass so near a berg that it seemed but awaiting an opportunity
to topple over upon and overwhelm us; and all the while no sounds
disturbed the air but the monotonous pulsations of the steamer and
the hollow gurgle of the waves of her making as they broke within the
icy caves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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