The principal town in the British territory on this side of the river
is Yahassu; and the ride to it from Fort Bullen after the mangrove
strip is traversed is rather picturesque. The path throughout is shaded
by stately silk-cotton, teak, caoutchouc, and cedar trees; while
plantations of Indian corn and ground-nuts extend on either side.
Yahassu stands in the centre of an immense plantation of bananas, and,
like all Mandingo towns, is surrounded by a strong stockade, made of
the trunks of trees of different lengths, and consequently somewhat
irregular. The entrance is at a re-entering angle, and is defended by
a small brass cannon, the sole piece of artillery appertaining to the
town. The houses are all circular, and consist of a swish wall, about
four feet in height, with a conical thatched roof, the rafters of which
rest on an inner circular wall reaching to the apex, and forming an
inner apartment. The door of this second chamber is in a point of the
circumference of the inner circle diametrically opposite to the side
and into the outer circle, so that ingress to it is only obtainable
by traversing the first apartment, which is usually occupied by the
slaves, dependents, and household utensils of the proprietor. Each
house stands in a rectangular yard; and the streets of the town,
which are about six feet wide, are completely walled in by the plaited
palm-leaf fences of these yards. In the centre of the town is a square,
where stands a mosque, and a school in which the male children are
taught to read the Koran, which is written on wooden tablets whitened
with lime. In the neighbourhood of Yahassu, the last elephant seen in
this part of Africa was slain some twenty years ago.
After visiting one of these towns, one cannot help being struck with
the difference of manner between Christian and Mohammedan negroes.
The latter are courteous and dignified, never try to elbow a white
man out of the path, or shove against him, or pick a quarrel; and the
salutation, “Dam white nigger,” is replaced by the oriental “Salaam
Aleykoum,” “Peace be with you;” while the idleness, improvidence,
drunkenness, and ignorance of the former is replaced by industry,
frugality, temperance, and a certain amount of learning. Yet not
satisfied with looking after the converts they have already gained
or striving to obtain others from among the idolatrous pagans,
missionaries actually endeavour to reduce Mohammedans to the debased
condition of their Christian compatriots: fortunately they do not meet
with much success. However moralists may endeavour to explain the
cause, the fact remains that Christianity does not produce such good
results among negroes as do the tenets of Mohammed. Probably I shall
bring down a storm of indignation on my head by saying that I consider
the former is not a religion adapted to races barely emerging from
barbarism. At all events this is what my experience of South and West
Africa tells me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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