Until I had visited British Combo I never could understand why it
was that old officers always spoke of the withdrawal of troops from
the Gambia with regret, and talked of that colony fondly as the best
station in West Africa; but after I had seen it, though shorn of its
former glories, it was quite comprehensible. Having borrowed from a
friend one of those diminutive but thoroughbred Arab horses common to
the country, I started from Bathurst one morning soon after daybreak on
my expedition. Passing the disgraceful burial-ground, and leaving to
the right Jolah town, which is inhabited by a race of outcasts supposed
to have no moral or religious code of any kind, and to possess their
women in common, I crossed a level tract of cultivated country, and
halted for a few minutes in the grove of palms at Oyster Creek. This
creek used to be the resort of the sporting members of the garrison,
who would supplement the somewhat scanty food supply of the colony
with green pigeons, wild ducks, curlew, and snipe from this place; but
now the report of a gun but rarely awakes its echoes.
On the other side of the creek I entered upon a swampy region,
consisting of stretches of sand and small lagoons surrounded by dwarf
mangroves; and after splashing through the last of these I found myself
in front of a dense growth of grass, eight or nine feet high. I thought
that if all the open country of which I had heard were like this I
should not care much about it, and rode into the narrow path which
lay before me. The grass closed overhead, and I could see nothing in
front but a long green tunnel, with occasional flecks of gold on the
sand where the sunlight broke through. The grass was heavy with dew; a
continual shower-bath of drops fell on me from above, and the long wet
stems brushed my legs on either side. I should have enjoyed it very
much if I had been unprovided with clothes, but I had not anticipated
this bath, and was consequently dressed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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