I shook them with unction, and they both passed on, highly gratified
with our interesting conversation, and pleased with the information
that I had given them. Really the Mandingos are a most intelligent
race, and how well these two understood what I had been telling them.
Riding on, I shortly arrived at a small village surrounded by a fence
made of palm-sticks, and further fortified on the exterior by hedges of
thorned acacia and prickly pear. This was the Mandingo town of Bakko,
and here the individual in whose honour the stone advertisements of
which I have spoken were erected was, during one of his numerous petty
expeditions, defeated with considerable loss by the natives under Hadji
Ismail, the black prophet. On that occasion a portion of the colonial
force was cut off and annihilated, while the remainder fell back
with considerable difficulty upon Bathurst, where, as the victorious
Mandingos followed up their success, and received large accessions to
their number from their warlike neighbours, the governor was obliged
ingloriously to apply to the French to save him and the colony.
I dismounted here, and was immediately surrounded by a crowd of naked
and grisgris-covered children, while three or four men lounging about
suspended their yawning and regarded me with stoical indifference. I
did not discharge my sentence at these, because I had learnt all the
news from the two with whom I had already conversed; and, besides, I
was rather fatigued with the previous conversation. After a few moments
a negro, clothed in the remnants of European garments, and whom in
consequence I inferred was not a Mohammedan, came up to me and said,
“Good morning.” He asked me what was my name, address, and occupation,
whether I was married or revelling in single bliss, if I had any rum
with me, and why I had come to Bakko; and in return vouchsafed the
information that he was a farmer. He said he would show me round the
town if I liked, so I left my horse in charge of a Mandingo and went
inside the fence.
The interior was a perfect labyrinth, and the houses similar to those
in the town of Yahassu, on the Barra side of the river, but smaller and
dirty. My guide pointed out to me several small edifices of palm-sticks
and bamboo, like miniature houses, raised upon piles inside the village
gate, and informed me that these were where the people kept their
corn. The doors to these granaries were merely bolted, and a piece of
paper, inscribed with a verse from the Koran in Arabic characters, was
fastened to each as a protection from thieves. My cicerone said,
“These are very foolish people, sar.”
“Are they? How?”
“They put dem writings on the bolts, and then think nobody can open the
doors.”
“Oh!”
“Yes; and them Mandingos won’t touch them when they’re leff so--they
’fraid to.”
“You’re not afraid, I suppose?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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