From Badagry I went on to Porto Novo, which lies seventeen miles
further to the west, or fifty miles in all from Lagos. A curious
feature of the lagoon between Badagry and Porto Novo is the large
number of floating grass islands which one passes. Some of them have
sufficient stability to admit of persons walking about on them, and,
were they but cultivated, would be not unlike the _chinampas_ of the
Aztecs on the lake of Mexico. They impede the navigation a good deal,
as no steamer could force its way through them, and _détours_ have
to be made to avoid them, which frequently result in the repose of a
sand-bank being rudely disturbed by the stem of an erring vessel. When
disembarking from the steamer at Porto Novo I landed on one of these
islands, about two acres in extent, and walked across it, sending the
boat round to the opposite side. It seemed quite firm underfoot, except
at the edges, and was covered with soil four or five inches deep,
bearing a luxuriant crop of grass. It was kept afloat by an underlying
mass of matted rushes, canes, and succulent grass, from three to four
feet thick, but how the earth got on the top of this I do not know.
This island was larger and more substantial than most, but all break
up very rapidly in the mimic storms which occasionally vex the placid
waters of the lagoon.
The town of Porto Novo is built on the eastern portion of the Porto
Novan lagoon, which is here two miles and a-half in breadth; and some
high ground, not elsewhere to be found for scores of miles along the
Slave Coast, lies a little to the north of it, and forms a pleasing
change in the dull level of the surrounding country. The town itself
is as dirty and irregular as most native ones, and there is nothing
to be seen worth mentioning but the _palace_ of the king, who is, on
a smaller scale, an irresponsible and bloodthirsty despot like his
friend and ally the King of Dahomey. The royal residence is surrounded
by a swish wall, loopholed for musketry and protected by a ditch: it
includes, too, buildings for the accommodation of the four or five
hundred wives, slaves, dependents, and retainers of his majesty. It
is entered by means of a gateway through a house built of sun-dried
bricks, with windows on the upper story only, looking outwards; a
massive and iron-studded door, with three or four loopholes cut in it,
seems to show that the king scarcely considers himself safe from attack
even at home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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