From Lagos I went on to the Oil Rivers, as the numerous outlets in the
Niger delta are termed. The Nun mouth is now the recognised entrance
of the Niger; its ten western openings are Benin, Escardos, Forcardos,
Ramos, Dodo, Pennington, and Middleton rivers, Blind Creek, and
Winstanley and Sengana outfalls, and its nine eastern are Brass River
or Rio Bento, San Nicolas, Santa Barbara, Sombreiro, San Bartolomeo,
New Calabar, Bonny, Antonio, and Opobo rivers. The New Calabar and the
Bonny or Obané Rivers discharge into one estuary; and some authorities
consider that the latter is not an outfall of the Niger at all.
The trade in these rivers is almost entirely in British hands, and
regular trading stations are found at Bonny, New Calabar, Brass, Opobo,
and Benin. The natives are independent of British rule, but from time
to time treaties have been made for the regulation of trade, and for
the protection of traders. In each river or outfall the traders form a
Court of Arbitration, which settles all trade disputes arising between
themselves and the natives; and cases of moment are submitted to the
consul of the Bights of Benin and Biafra, who resides in the island of
Fernando Po. The principal exports are palm-oil, kernels, camwood, and
ivory, and it is from the immense quantities of the first commodity
annually shipped to England, and there used in the manufacture of tin,
butter, soap, and pomade, that the title of Oil Rivers is derived.
It would be difficult to imagine a more depressing and gloomy region
than that of the delta of the Niger. On all sides, as far as the
eye can reach, one sees nothing but swamp after swamp of countless
mangroves, intersected in every direction by foul creeks of reeking
and muddy water; while, when the tide is out, vast expanses of black,
slimy mud, on which hideous crocodiles bask, are exposed to the sun.
It is indeed a horrible and loathsome tract, and it is a matter for
wonder that Europeans can be found willing to pass the best years of
their lives in such a place. Yet such is the case, and though a large
percentage of the white residents annually succumb to the pestilential
climate, and all suffer more or less from its effects, the survivors
jog along uncomplainingly, and some even seem in a measure to enjoy
their existence--one can hardly call it life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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