The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
A group of camels had gathered on the shore; and inland lay a mob
of pilgrims, the Hajj el-Magháribah, numbering some three
thousand North-West Africans; an equally large division had
already preceded them to Suez. Letters from Egypt assured us that
cholera had broken out at Meccah and Jeddah, killing in both
places ninety-eight per diem. Here the pilgrims swore by their
Allah that all were, and ever had been, in perfect health; it is
every man's business to ignore the truth, to hide the sick, and
to bury the dead out of sight. Hard swearing, however, did not
prevent the Hajj undergoing a long quarantine before entering
Suez. The English journals had reported another disaster: "Now
that the Sultán's power is collapsing, the most powerful Bedaween
tribes are rising because their subsidies are withheld. For weeks
the great pilgrim-traffic of autumn (? add the other three
seasons) was arrested by them; and even between Medina and Mecca
the road is unsafe." Of this I could hear nothing.
We awaited, on board, the departure of the pauper and infected
"Mogrebbins:" when the place was clear we fired a gun, and, after
an answer of three, I received the visits of the fort officials.
They were civility itself; they immensely admired our two
"splendid buttons" of poor iron; and they privily remarked, with
much penetration, that the colour was that of brass: they were,
in truth, far wiser than we had been. With them came Mohammed ibn
Jád (not Iját) el-'Alawí (of the 'Alawlyyin-Huwaytát), who styles
himself "Shaykh of El-'Akabah:" he is remarkable for frank
countenance, pleasant manners, and exceeding greed. He was
gorgeously arrayed in an overall ('Abáyah) of red silk and gold
thread (Gasab), covering a similar cloak of black wool: besides
which, a long-sleeved Egyptian caftán, striped stuff of silk and
wool, invested his cotton Kamís and Libás ("bag-breeches"). To
his A'kál or "fillet" of white fleecy wool hung a talisman; his
Khuff ("riding-boots") were of red morocco, and his
sword-scabbard was covered with the same material. The Arab ever
loves scarlet, and all varieties of the sanguine hue are as dear
to him as to the British soldier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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