The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
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The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
It was not pleasant to beat a retreat; but, under the
circumstances, what else could be done? No one was to be relied
upon but the Europeans, and not all even of them. The black
escort, emancipated slaves, would have run away at the first
shot; except only Acting-Corporal Khayr. And when I told the
officers assembled at mess that we should march back early next
morning, the general joy showed how little they relished the
prospect of an advance. Then came out in mass the details--many
doubtless apocryphal--which should have been reported to me, and
which had carefully been kept secret. The Ma'ázah, when our
messenger first notified our visit, had declared that they would
have no Nazarenes in their mountains; that they did not care a
fico for Egypt. Why had not "Effendíná" written to them? they
were his equals, not his subjects! It was then debated whether
they should not raise a force of dromedary-men to fall upon us.
Some of them proposed to summon to their aid the rival chief, Ibn
Hermás; but the majority thought it would be better to reserve
for themselves the hundred dollars per diem, of which they
proposed to fleece us.
Of course, everything around us was intrigue; the Máyat taht
el-Tibn ("water under the straw") of the Arab saying. Furayj, it
is true, looked serene, and privately offered me to fight the
affair out; but he was alone in the idea. The Sayyid was
tranquil, as usual; Hasan the Ukbi wore an unpleasant appearance
of satisfaction, as if he had been offered a share in the plunder
of the Huwaytát; and Alayán, a brave man on his own ground,
could hardly conceal his dejection. I might, it is evident, have
seized Shaykh Mohammed, placed a pistol to his ear, and carried
him off a prisoner; but such grands moyens must be reserved for
great occasions. The worst symptoms in camp were that the Ma'ázah
at once knew the whole of my project; while the Egyptian officers
were ever going to their tents, and one stayed talking with them
till near midnight.
February 25th was a day of humiliation. I aroused the camp at
4.30 a.m., and at once gave orders to strike the tents and load.
The command was obeyed in double quick time; but not before
Shaykh Mohammed had visited us to propose a march to his home in
the east. He was not comfortable; probably his reinforcements had
still to arrive: his face was calm, as the Eastern's generally
is; but his feet trembled, and his toes twitched. I drily told
him of our changed plans, and he left us in high dudgeon. The
tragi-comedy which followed may be divided into six acts:--
1. The Ma'ázah mount their horses and camels: I walk up to them,
and expostulate about so abrupt a departure without even drinking
a friendly cup of coffee.
2. They dismount, and squat in council round the fire, sending on
three dromedary-riders to crown a hill commanding the pass. The
"burning question" is now whether armed clansmen are or are not
lurking behind the heights.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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