The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
3. Shaykh Mohammed comes forward, and demands blackmail to the
extent of two hundred dollars. I offer one hundred dollars.
4. Our hosts break off the debate in a towering rage; refuse
coffee, and declare that the caravan of "Effendíná" (the Viceroy)
shall not be loaded. Mohammed's feet twitch more violently as the
camels are made to kneel.
5. The caravan shows too much emotion. I pay the two hundred
dollars into the chief's hands. He at once demands his Sharaf
("honour") in the shape of a Kiswah, or handsome dress, and, that
failing, an additional twenty-five dollars for each of the five
headmen. I promise that a robe shall be sent from
El-Muwaylah.[EN#158]
6. The caravan sets out for the Pass, when the three
dromedary-riders open with the war-cry: it is stopped with much
apparatus by the Shaykhs, who affect to look upon it as
dangerous.
* * * * *
We now marched without delay upon the Col, which was reached at
8:15 a.m.; Mohammed bin Atíyyah having meanwhile disappeared. We
descended the Khuraytat el-Jils in twenty-six minutes, and
dismissed the remainder of our Ma'ázah escort at the foot. I
vainly offered them safeguard to El-Muwaylah, which they have not
visited for the last dozen years; all refused absolutely to pass
their own frontiers.
Au revoir Mohammed ibn Atíyyah and company!
Having broken our fast and sent forward the caravan, we at once
began to descend the southern Pass, the Khuraytat el-Zibá. Here
the watershed of the Wady Surr heads; and merchants object to
travel by its shorter line, because their camels must ascend two
ladders of rocks, instead of one at the top of the Wady Sadr. The
Col was much longer and but little less troublesome than its
northern neighbour; the formation was the same, and forty-five
minutes placed us in a gully, that presently widened to a big
valley, the Wady Dahal or El-Khuraytah. We reached it at 12:30
p.m., and laid down the distance from the summit of the northern
Col at about five miles and a quarter. The air felt tepid, the
sun waxed hot; drinking-water was found on the left of the bed,
and a hole in the sole represented a spring, which the people say
is perennial: we were dismounting to quench our thirst at the
latter, when Juno plunged into it, and stood quietly eyeing us
with an air of intense satisfaction.
We spent that night at a place lower down the Wady Dahal, known
as the Jayb el-Khuraytah ("Collar of the Col"). The term "Jayb"
is locally applied to two places only; the other being the Jayb
el-Sa'lúwwah, which we shall presently visit. A larger feature
than a Wady, it reminds us of a Norfolk "broad," but it is of
course waterless. Guards were placed around the camp; and a
wholesome dread of the Ma'ázah kept them wide awake. The only
evil which resulted was that none dared to lead our mules to
water; and the poor animals were hardly rideable on the next day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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