To-day, Warsaw is still a fine city of broad streets paved with wooden
blocks, with rows of stores on both sides, prominent among which are the
richly equipped jewelry establishments. Carriage traffic is
considerable, even though it cannot compare with that in St. Petersburg.
Just now the main artery of the city, the Vistula, is closed. The stream
is frozen almost over its entire width and ravens croak on the snowy
shoals. But within the city there pass unceasingly modestly neat
cabriolets, fashionable cabs, and splendid private turnouts with Russian
harness and servants. The buildings are of little interest. A few
attempts in the Russian style, a few Polish shadings of quite modern
secession architecture strike the foreigner, but the deepest impression
is created by the feverish life on the streets and not by its ornamental
frame-work. From this should be excepted the pleasure Villa Lazienki and
its quaint park situated at the end of the avenue. Even snow and ice
cannot banish the spirits that possess one in these gardens. It is a
miniature Versailles. Here is a little castle within which is a
picture-gallery of aristocratic beauties, statues, and portraits of King
Stanislas Poniatowski represented mythologically as King Solomon
entering Jerusalem; without are enchanting villas scattered throughout
the park, in the centre of which is a little natural theatre built in
the open of stone, and arranged like an amphitheatre, the stage
separated from the rest by an arena of the wide lake, and constructed of
Corinthian columns and palisade of bushes. Plays were given here in the
times when the court and the "beauties" of the picture-gallery enjoyed
nature and art together. The moon in the sky was one of the requisites,
and fireworks were burned for the relaxation of the high and most high
lords. Meanwhile the kingdom hastened to its ruin; for a witty,
pleasure-loving court and an immoral oligarchy together are beyond the
endurance of one people, especially when it is surrounded by covetous
neighbors. One hundred years of slavery and three ruthlessly suppressed
revolutions are the historical penalty for the pleasures of Castle
Lazienki. There and on the broad election plane the "Pole Elekcji
Krolow," in the southern part of the town, where the "schlachtzitz"
(lordling) could deposit his "liberum veto" for a couple of rubles or
thalers, the kingdom was destroyed, and its resurrection is a pious wish
the fulfilment of which even our grandchildren will not live to see.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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