We are nicely located. From our windows we see the towers of the
Kremlin, which rise above the nearest roofs. Let him who will endure
remaining behind double windows! After washing and having some tea we
are at the door again, and quickly make a bargain with the "izwozchik"
who is to drive us over the outlined tour of the city. Horse and sleigh
are a bit smaller than in St. Petersburg, but still very good. And so we
are out in the sunshine, off into the snowy landscape, to gain a hurried
general conception of the endless city.
For two hours our good little horse draws us, gliding over bridges and
pikes, up and down hill, and when we return half frozen to the hotel we
have seen scarce a fraction of the periphery, but a thousand teams, with
shaggy muzhiks in wicker sleighs, and, still more, little country-houses
of wood, which might serve in the West for summer cottages, but which
offer an inviting shelter even here in the icy winter. The whole of
Moscow is a complex of official municipal buildings which are crowded
together into the narrowest space, of churches and palaces narrowly
crowded about the Kremlin, and of immense suburbs which lie in rings
about the inner town. But these suburbs have a half-country
character--broad, uneven streets and low, villa-like houses, with little
gardens. Little Mother Moscow gives her children room. They do not have
to crowd together in usuriously paying tenements, and houses of more
than one story are quite the exception. Even in the shadow of the
Kremlin a parterre for the stores and a single story above it are
sufficient. Really, only the hotels stretch with three or four stories
heavenward. The impression is ever recurring that Moscow has no desire
to be a city, and only quite unwillingly yields to the necessity of a
crowded existence.
The Kremlin, which we did not lose sight of once on our whole trip,
entices us strongly. It lies before us; so let us enter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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