Yes, if it were as easily done as said! We cross a broad square, across
which lean little horses draw a horse-car high as the first story of a
house, and then we stand before buildings which allow us to go no
farther. It is the Duma, the city hall, on the left, and the historical
museum on the right, both dark-red in color; on the latter the façade is
built entirely of darkened stone, so that it gives the impression of the
whole being incrusted. The style is to be met with frequently. It
belongs to the sixteenth century and is now being revived. The idea of
using a coating of Russian enamel as an element of architectural style
is a brilliant one. We reach a gate of the high wall surrounding the
inner city Kitay-Gorod. But before we pass the gate let us cast a glance
at the peculiar doings in the little chapel, scarcely bigger than a
room, which is built on its left side. It is the Iberian chapel, with
the famed image of the Virgin to which the Czar pays his devotions
before he enters the Kremlin. The original, with its genuine precious
stones, is now in the city, where for a fee it is brought to sick
people. In the mean time a copy takes its place. At the time of the
daily excursions of the Virgin the governor-general, Prince Sergius,
does not allow the Jews to remain on the streets. The Blessed Virgin may
not see upon her way the traces of Jewish feet. Every one crosses
himself before her. But most climb the few steps to her and cross
themselves again, with deep bendings of the upper body; but some, men as
well as women, throw themselves full length upon the ground and touch
the earth with their foreheads. The candle trade flourishes; scarcely a
soul enters who does not buy a candle and light it before some image. No
difference of station can be recognized. The great lady, the high
official, the dirty muzhik, all are the same in their worship. Their
caps are continually removed, and the rather time-consuming Russian
ceremony of making the sign of the cross is performed. But the really
pious ones do not content themselves with worshipping before the gate.
They do the same thing again when inside.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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