It cannot be said that the city appears in a favorable light when viewed
from the railroad. The not over-elegant two-horse vehicle which takes us
and our baggage rattles over miserable pavements, dirty from the melting
snow, through broad, endless suburban streets. The houses on either side
are of only one story, built mostly of wood, their poverty-stricken
appearance being intensified here and there by three-storied barracks.
Liquor-shops, little second-hand stores, wooden huts, with putrid
garbage, follow one another in a variety by no means pleasing. The
passers-by, ill-clad, with the inevitable rubber shoes, shuffle along
the slushy sidewalks; trucks with two or sometimes three horses, their
necks bent under the brightly painted Russian "duga" (wooden yoke), a
truly Gorki atmosphere in its entirety. One can scarcely believe that he
is entering one of the most brilliant cities of the continent. The
endless rows of stores with their two-storied sheds, which one passes on
the way to the centre of the city, but slightly improve one's first
impression, for even they are far removed from the splendor of the
capital.
We finally reach the hotel to which our mail has been addressed. It is
an enormous structure, more than two hundred metres long. Yet it has no
room for us. It is filled to overflowing. It is impossible to crowd in
one more soul. We again take our carriage. We drive from one hotel to
another, growing constantly more modest in our demands for lodging. But
our efforts are vain. Everything is occupied to the very gables.
We were careless in coming to St. Petersburg in January. This is the
time of congresses, of business, of carnivals. All the provincial
officials are here to render their annual reports to their ministries.
Naturally, they bring with them their families, who wish to make their
important purchases here and to taste of the social season. Congresses
and conferences are held here not in the summer and vacation months as
with us, but shortly before the "butter-week," really a carnival, the
pleasure of which one may wish to take this opportunity to test.
Medical, teachers', and insurance congresses are held here at the same
time. Foreign merchants come here to complete their transactions. But
the great city of St. Petersburg is not adapted for foreign guests.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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