Palaces and palaces stretch along the stream right up to the Field of
Mars. The gilded spire of the Peter-and-Paul cathedral pierces the
white-blue sky and greets, with its angel balanced on the extreme spire,
the equally grotesque high spire of the admiralty. Great stone and iron
bridges span the broad stream, its opposite shore almost faded in the
light mist of the wintry day. Walking towards the middle of the bridge,
whence a splendid view may be obtained, one sees the long row of
buildings on the farther islands standing out of the mist. One row of
columns is followed by another--the Academy of Arts, the Academy of
Sciences, the house of Menschikov, which Catherine built for her
favorite, come into view. Towards the west the hulls of vessels stand
out from among the docks. Still farther out the mist hides the shoals of
the Neva, together with those of the Gulf of Finland, in an impenetrable
gray. Towards the north stretch the endless lanes with their bare
branches which lead to the islands. This is the Bois de Boulogne of St.
Petersburg, where the gilded youth race in brightly decorated "troikas,"
and hasten to squander in champagne, at cards, and in gypsy
entertainments, the wages of the starved muzhik. It is a magnificent
picture of power, of self-conscious riches, the better part of which is
furnished by the mighty stream itself.
It is easy now to realize that St. Petersburg was originally planned
for a seaport, and that it therefore presents its glittering front to
the sea. The railroads which conduct the traffic to-day could no longer
penetrate with their stations into the city proper; hence the visitors
must first pass through the broad, melancholy suburban girdle which
gives one the impression of a giant village. When access to the city was
still by boat from the Gulf of Finland, the landing at the "English
quay," with its view of all these colossal structures, golden domes and
spires, must have created a powerful impression. Nothing less was
contemplated by this massing of palaces. The capital and residence city
was not intended to facilitate the access of the West but rather to
inspire it with awe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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