Borne by the one-story high--entirely too high--naked Atlas of polished
black granite, there rises the side roof of the Hermitage over a terrace
of the "millionnaya" (millionaires' street). We enter the dark, high
entrance-hall, from which a high marble staircase, between polished
walls, leads to a pillared hall, already seen from below. The
attendants, in scarlet uniforms, jokingly known at the court as
"lobsters," officiously relieve us of our fur coats, and we hasten into
the long ground floor, where await us the world-famous antiquities from
Kertch, in the Crimea. Unfortunately, there awaits us also a sad
disappointment. The high walls are so dark, even in the middle of the
gray winter day, that the beauty of the many charming miniatures must be
surmised rather than felt. We could see scarcely anything of the great
collection of vases. We breathe with relief when we at last enter a hall
that has light and air, now richly rewarded for our Tantalus-like
sufferings in the preceding rooms. Here glitter the gold laurel and
acorn crowns that once adorned proud Greek foreheads; there sparkles the
gold-braided border with which the Greek woman trimmed her garments,
representing in miniature relief lions' and rams' heads. The gold
bracelets and necklaces, ear-rings and brooches tell us that there is
nothing new under the sun. Before the birth of Christ there were worn in
Chersonesus the same patterns that are now designed anew by diligent
artistic craftsmen--nay, even vases and tumblers, the creations of the
most modern individualities, had already lain buried under the rubbish
of thousands of years. Our attention is drawn to a vase in a separate
case, which gives an excellent representation of the progress of a
bride's toilet from the bath to its finishing touches ready for the
bridegroom's reception. Who knows what scene of domestic happiness was
involved in the presentation of this gift thousands of years ago!
Sensations which one experiences only in the streets and houses of
Pompeii are renewed here while looking at the glass cases with their
collections of ornaments and of articles of utility that tell us of the
refined pleasures and the exquisite taste of times long gone by. The
waves of the Black Sea played about Greek patrician houses where to-day
the rugged Cossack rides with the knout in his hand. A great hall shows
us finally the Olympian Zeus with the eagles at his feet, also with the
soaring Nike in his right hand. Klinger's "Beethoven" reminds us
involuntarily of this lofty work without attaining its majesty. A
torch-bearer, a mighty caryatid of Praxiteles with a truly wonderful
draping of the garments, a Dionysus of the fourth century, an Omphale
clad in the attributes of Hercules, sarcophagi with masterly reliefs, a
divine Augustus, portrait busts of satyrs, entitle this collection to
rank with that of the Vatican, not in numbers, but in the great worth of
single works. But our wonder and admiration become greater when we enter
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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