The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
Eager for a closer acquaintance with Macao, I drove out that afternoon
in a ricksha. I was whirled first along the Praia Grande, which runs
around the curving bay below the hotel. On the right‐hand side lay a
strongly built sea‐wall. On the tree‐shaded promenade between it and
the roadway groups of the inhabitants of the city were enjoying the
cool evening breeze. Sturdy little Portuguese soldiers in dark‐blue
uniforms and _képis_ strolled along in two and threes, ogling the
yellow or dark‐featured Macaese ladies, a few of whom wore mantillas.
Half‐caste youths, resplendent in loud check suits and immaculate
collars and cuffs, sat on the sea‐wall or, airily puffing their cheap
cigarettes, sauntered along the promenade with languid grace. Grave
citizens walked with their families, the prettier portion of whom
affected to be demurely unconscious of the admiring looks of the
aforesaid dandies. A couple of priests in shovel hats and long, black
cassocks moved along in the throng.
The left side of the Praia was lined with houses, among which were
some fine buildings, including the Government, Post and Telegraph
Bureaus, commercial offices, private residences, and a large mansion,
with two projecting wings, the Governor’s Palace. At the entrance
stood a sentry, while the rest of the guard lounged near the doorway.
At the end of the Praia Grande were the pretty public gardens, shaded
by banyan trees, with flower‐beds, a bandstand, and a large building
beyond it—the Military Club. Past the gate of the Gardens the road
turned away from the sea and ran between rows of Chinese houses until
it reached the long, tree‐bordered Estrada da Flora. On the left lay
cultivated land. On the right the ground sloped gently back to a bluff
hill, on which stood a lighthouse, the oldest in China. At the foot
of this eminence lay the pretty summer residence of the Governor,
picturesquely named Flora, surrounded by gardens and fenced in by a
granite wall. Continuing under the name of Estrada da Bella Vista, the
road ran on to the sea and turned to the left around a flower‐bordered,
terraced green mound, at the summit of which was a look‐out whence
a charming view was obtained. From this the mound derives the name
of Bella Vista. In front lay a shallow bay. To the left the shore
curved round to a long, low, sandy causeway, which connects Macao with
the island of Heung Shan. Midway on this stood a masonry gateway,
Porta Cerco, which marks the boundary between Portuguese and Chinese
territory. Hemmed in by a sea‐wall, the road continued from Bella Vista
along above the beach, past the isthmus, on which was a branch road
leading to the Porta, by a stretch of cultivated ground, and round the
peninsula, until it reached the city again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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