The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
After dinner that evening, accompanied by a friend staying at the
same hotel, I strolled down to the Public Gardens, where the police
band was playing and the “beauty and fashion” of Macao assembled.
They were crowded with gay promenaders. Trim Portuguese naval or
military officers, brightly dressed ladies, soldiers, civilians,
priests and laity strolled up and down the walks or sat on the benches.
Sallow‐complexioned children chased each other round the flower‐beds.
Opposite the bandstand stood a line of chairs reserved for the Governor
and his party. We met some acquaintances among the few British
residents in the colony; and one of them, being an honorary member of
the Military Club situated at one end of the Gardens, invited us into
it. We sat at one of the little tables on the terrace, where the élite
of Macao drank their coffee and liqueurs, and watched the gay groups
promenading below. The scene was animated and interesting, thoroughly
typical of the way in which Continental nations enjoy outdoor life,
as the English never can. Hong Kong, with all its wealth and large
European population, has no similar social gathering‐place; and its
citizens wrap themselves in truly British unneighbourly isolation.
The government of Macao is administered from Portugal. The Governor
is appointed from Europe; and the local Senate is vested solely with
the municipal administration of the colony. The garrison consists of
Portuguese artillerymen to man the forts and a regiment of Infantry of
the Line, relieved regularly from Europe. There is also a battalion
of police, supplemented by Indian and Chinese constables—the former
recruited among the natives of the Portuguese territory of Goa on
the Bombay coast, though many of the sepoys hail from British India.
A gunboat is generally stationed in the harbour. The troubles all
over China in 1900 had a disturbing influence even in this isolated
Portuguese colony. An attack from Canton was feared in Macao as well as
in Hong Kong; and the utmost vigilance was observed by the garrison.
One night heavy firing was heard from the direction of the Porta
Cerco, the barrier on the isthmus. It was thought that the Chinese
were at last descending on the settlement. The alarm sounded and the
troops were called out. Sailors were landed from the _Zaire_ with
machine‐guns. A British resident in Macao told me that so prompt were
the garrison in turning out that in twenty minutes all were at their
posts and every position for defence occupied. At each street‐corner
stood a strong guard; and machine‐guns were placed so as to prevent
any attempt on the part of the Chinese in the city to aid their
fellow‐countrymen outside. However, it was found that the alarm was
occasioned by the villagers who lived just outside the boundary, firing
on the guards at the barrier in revenge for the continual insults to
which their women, when passing in and out to market in Macao, were
subjected by the Portuguese soldiers at the gate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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