The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
Comfortably installed in the Hôtel du Nord, we determined to devote our
first afternoon in Pekin to a visit to the quarter of most pressing,
though temporary, interest, the Legations, on which the thoughts of
the whole civilised world had been concentrated during their gallant
defence against a fanatical and cowardly foe. As the distance was
short, we set out on foot. The courtyard of the hotel opens on to
the long street that runs through the Tartar city from the Ha‐ta‐man
Gate, leading into the Chinese city. As the wall was close at hand,
we ascended it by one of the ramps or inclined ways that lead to the
top, and entered the tower above the gateway. It was a rectangular
three‐storied building with the usual sloping gabled roofs and wide,
upturned eaves of Chinese architecture. The interior was bare and
empty. The lower room was wide and lofty, the full breadth and depth of
the tower, and communicating with the floor above by a steep ladder.
From the large windows of the upper stories a fine view over both
cities was obtained. We looked down on the seething crowds passing
along Ha‐ta‐man Street and away to where, above the Legation quarter,
the flags of the Allies fluttered gaily in proud defiance to the tall
yellow roofs of the Imperial palace close by. Descending, we emerged
upon the broad paved road that ran along the top of the wall, and
found it a pleasant change from the close, fetid streets. The side
towards the Chinese city, the houses of which run up to the foot
of the wall, is defended by a loopholed and embrasured parapet. We
soon found ourselves over the Legation quarter and looked down on the
spot where the besieged Europeans had so long held their assailants
at bay. A broad ditch or nullah with walled sides, which during the
rains drains the Tartar city, ran towards the wall on which we stood,
passing beneath our feet through a tunnel in it, which could be closed
by an iron grating. This was the famous water‐gate by which the
Anglo‐Indian troops had entered, first of the Allies, to the relief of
the besieged. The nullah was crossed by several bridges, over one of
which passes Legation Street, along which we had ridden in our rickshas
that morning. On the left bank of the nullah, looking north, stands
the English Legation, surrounded by a high wall enclosing well‐wooded
grounds. Opposite it, on the right bank, is the Japanese Legation,
similarly enclosed. During the siege the two were connected by a wall
built across the watercourse, which is generally dry, and they thus
formed the front face of the defence. A portion of the city wall, cut
off by breastworks on the summit, became the rear face, which was held
by the Americans, who were attacked along the top of the wall itself.
The French, German, and Belgian Legations lay to the right and rear of
the Japanese; while the Russian and American stood between the British
Legation and the wall. All around the limits of the defence were acres
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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