One of the sights of this ocean voyage is Mt. Shishaldin, an active
volcano nearly nine thousand feet high and located about thirty miles
east of Unimak Pass. In symmetry and in the beauty of its curves it
rivals Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of Japan. No geographer has ever
visited Mt. Shishaldin. No man has yet ascended it. Unimak, the island
on which it stands, is a continuation of the Alaskan Peninsula, being
separated from it only by a narrow strait. Like the rest of the
Aleutian chain, it lies between Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean.
It was about three o'clock in the morning of June ninth that we sighted
the volcano. Scarcely any one on board had retired, as none wished to
miss the view of the mountain. It is safe to say that none regretted
the loss of sleep. It was a sight long to be remembered. Directly over
the smoking cone the early-morning sun, dark red of hue, was slowly
rising. The effect was most spectacular and--symbolic! No work of the
Master's hand so symbolizes life as do the mountains. No matter how
dark the vales and cañons, on the heights there is always light!
It was shortly after we entered the Pass that our journey began to
afford us excitement. Here we encountered the first large ice floes and
caught between them were many vessels,--the _Ohio_, _Senator_,
_Victoria_, _Olympia_ and _Mackinac_ being plainly visible. Each was
trying to find a passage through the ice and it was most amusing to
see the grim smile which came over the face of our own Captain W----
when he saw their predicament. It is considered quite an honor to bring
the first boat through the ice in the spring. No wonder, then, that the
Captain was pleased. All these boats had sailed from one to three days
ahead of us. Now the _St. Croix_ had an equal chance with the rest.
At about half speed we started to plow through the ice. We made about
fifty miles. Then the ice became much thicker and more difficult to
penetrate. Many times we came to a standstill. Then we would back up
some eight or nine hundred feet and at full speed would go ahead again,
ramming the ice with all possible force. It was necessary to hold on to
the rail in order to keep one's feet.
Now, this sort of thing may be interesting for a certain length of
time, but when it becomes continuous one's interest flags! Operations
were suspended for thirty minutes three times a day while meals were
served, but except for these intervals, it went on night and day. I say
night and day, but it was principally day. At this time of year there
was only about one hour of the twenty-four when one could not see to
read in his state-room without the electric light.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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