The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic exploration — John Shaqi
The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic explorationMarkham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
History
The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic exploration
Markham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
Polar regions -- Discovery and exploration
To begin with the Spitsbergen quadrant; the northern coast of Norway,
now known as Finmarken, and the Kola peninsula face the Polar Sea,
but, owing to the warm current from the south, this coast has its
bays and inlets clear of ice throughout the year. The coast is lined
by numerous islands, several of them of considerable size to the west
of the North Cape, and is indented by deep fjords. The most northern
point of Europe is in 71° 11′. Inland there is a flat mountain plateau,
with a height of some 1500 feet, consisting of stony desert with a few
patches of reindeer moss, and some morasses. The plateau is traversed
by rivers such as the Tana and the Alten, which force their way through
accumulations of gravel before reaching the sea. Pine forests have
now receded from the coast to the foot of the gneiss mountains in the
interior, and their place is taken by dwarf birch near the sea. The
Kola peninsula, known to the Russians as the Murman coast, has high
and precipitous granite cliffs and a line of central hills sending the
drainage on one side to the Murman, and on the other side to the White
Sea.
This is the land of the Lapps, encamped for hunting, and on the sea
coast for fishing in summer. Their average height is about 5 ft. 1 in.,
and they have high cheek-bones, small elongated eyes, wide mouths,
little or no beard, and dark straight hair. Their circular tents are
made of coarse cloth supported by branch poles of birch and pine. A
fire is lighted in the centre, and there is an opening at the top by
which the smoke escapes. The Lapps are always wandering for food for
their reindeer--moss and birch leaves, and in winter lichen. One family
requires a herd of at least 200 animals. The Lapps drive their reindeer
in sledges, make cheese from their milk, eat the venison, and make most
of their clothing of the skins. These people can march great distances
with a short quick step and carry very heavy loads. They live to a
considerable age. Their language is Mongolian, and their religion one
of magic and witchcraft, which inspired some awe in the minds of the
Norsemen who enforced tribute from them.
Eastward from the White Sea the nature of the country changes, and
we enter upon the _tundras_, a Russian name for the bare tracts
between the forests to the south, and the shores of the Polar Ocean.
The Petchora is the greatest river of the western tundra, flowing
northwards along the western spurs of the Ural Mountains towards the
gulf of Mezen, where the delta is 120 miles long, the channels winding
in a network round islets and banks which shift their positions at
every thaw. Fifty miles off the coast lies the island of Kolguev, 50
miles long by 40, entirely composed of sand and small stones, all its
deposits being referable to oceanic forces; it is, indeed, essentially
a water and ice-formed island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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