The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countriesJaekel, Blair
History
The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countries
Jaekel, Blair
Balkan Peninsula
Down the street now comes a parade of bullock carts, laden with wool.
The clumsy animals lumber lazily along, while the drivers, one of whom
walks in front of each team, tap deftly with their long poles first one
beast and then the other between the horns, to remind them to stay
awake until they arrive at the market. The carts are heavy affairs and
look for all the world like some sort of ancient chariots. And I may
state here that the bullock, a prototype of the water-buffalo of the
Far East, is a domestic animal commonly found in Bulgaria, and for what
reason it was originally imported to the country I have often wondered.
Nevertheless, it seems thoroughly acclimated, and is used as a beast of
burden by the peasants and farmers, not only on the plains but in the
mountains as well, where, you might imagine, its awkwardness and weight
would be to its disadvantage in negotiating the rocky roads.
In the slender shadow of the mosque tower another heavily-clothed
peasant and his wife are engaged in selling live stock. The woman
fondles a suckling pig under her left arm, while, with her free hand,
she holds another, head downward, by the hind feet. Each of these pigs
may be purchased for two _francs_, and for three, a live lamb from the
husband. A pair of spring chickens brings the same ridiculous price as
a suckling pig.
[Illustration: A GROUP POSED FOR THE CAMERA AT THE FRIDAY MARKET,
SOPHIA.]
In wedging your way through the crowd, which by this time surges
over the entire square and overflows into the adjacent streets,
you stumble over an old Turkish woman, in baggy, yellow bloomers
and curved-toed slippers, who has deliberately spread her array of
embroideries in the very centre of the sidewalk.
At the noon hour, when the Muezzin again calls the faithful to prayer,
the market is at its height. From a distance, the monotonous drone of
the street-cries sounds like the hum of a myriad insects, the swelling
cadenzas of which, as they float out upon the soporific atmosphere, may
be heard in any part of the city.
At last the peasants, after a profitable holiday in town, prepare
to start on their homeward journey. By the middle of the afternoon
the last solitary vender has departed with his pack-animals or his
bullock cart, his fur coat and his woollen stockings. Then the street
cleaners and street sprinklers take the square in hand. They sprinkle
the dust and scrub the pavement and in half an hour you would not have
believed that that same square was the place from which emanated, but
a short time before, the Babelonic hum-drum of hundreds of perspiring
market-people.
* * * * *
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