The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countriesJaekel, Blair
History
The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countries
Jaekel, Blair
Balkan Peninsula
But what of unusual interest did the _Codolo_ have in store to occasion
such wholesale manifestation of inquisitiveness among the natives of
the town? Even our driver confessed he had never seen such a gathering
on the _molo_. The arrival of an official of high rank, probably. But
no, there seemed to be an absolute dearth of uniformed soldiery, and
no state official could possibly arrive without the attending pomp and
circumstance.
We drove through the old sea-gate at a gallop and descended pell-mell
upon the _molo_, our driver walloping his horses through the crowd
with reckless abandon and utter disregard for human life or limb, for
_he_ was curious, too.
As we came to a jerky halt at the foot of the gangway we saw that on
the steamer’s deck stood a great, mud-coloured object, which somewhat
resembled in size and contour the broadside of an elephant. This
mastodon, whatever it might be, was swathed in tarpaulins.
Tackle and planks were being rigged rapidly, and, at last, the puzzling
what-was-it was skidded to the _molo_ from the deck of the steamer. The
gaping crowd stood breathless with anticipation while the tarpaulins
were raised, and behold! a motor-omnibus for use on the road between
the steamer piers at Gravosa and the fashionable hotel in Ragusa.
Wonder of Wonders! The first automobile to denature with the fumes of
gasoline the virgin atmosphere of lower Dalmatia.
This marvellous machine was the most cumbersome parcel of freight
consigned to Gravosa and soon the reversed twin screws of the steamer
were churning the placid waters of the harbour into filmy patches
of white froth. We backed away from the _molo_ and its burden of
inquisitive onlookers, turned about and headed speedily for the narrow
harbour exit, through which we caught glimpses of the blue of the
Adriatic beyond.
The four hour sea trip from Gravosa to Cattaro is one replete with
scenic surprises, and the first of these is a magnificent panorama of
Ragusa and her stately fortresses as we round the rocky promontory just
to the north of the town. Ragusa is inviting enough from land, but when
viewed from the sea it is fascinating beyond description.
For a distance after passing Ragusa the coast line is unprotected
from the winds and storms of the Adriatic but, except in early spring
or late fall, little fear of the sudden rising of a “Bora” or a
“Scirocco,” the winds most dreaded along the Dalmatian coast, need be
felt. On account of the depth of water the course taken by the steamers
is always within easy sight of the shore, and the mountains seem to
rise directly from the red-tiled roofs of the village houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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