The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countriesJaekel, Blair
History
The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countries
Jaekel, Blair
Balkan Peninsula
Upon leaving Cattaro the road skirts the harbour for a short distance,
winds around toward the hills through avenues of stately poplars,
crosses a little bridge which spans the Gordicchio, makes several
zig-zags, and then sweeps widely toward the south—you really seem to
be driving away from the mountain which you must scale later—in full
view of the Adriatic, while the bay, or Bocche di Cattaro, is lost to
view behind you. At the top of the pass leading to the town of Budua,
the outlook over the broad, fertile plain of Garbalj, with the sea in
the distance, is very impressive. For a short distance the highway, as
it winds around the face of the cliff, literally overhangs the plain
and then turns abruptly toward the Black Mountain. In the distance the
white, zig-zagging road, surmounting the almost perpendicular wall of
rock ahead, looks like a thread on the shoulder of a giant, and
causes you to wonder that it took no more than twenty years to build.
[Illustration: A SECTION OF THE ROAD ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS.]
This being the shortest and easiest route for trade between the outside
world and the Montenegrin capital, quantities of provisions, household
furniture, lumber and other materials for building purposes, and
what not are freighted by four, five and six-horse teams over these
twenty-eight miles of mountains, from Cattaro to Cettinje. There is
also a passenger stage that operates daily between the two towns.
We had passed the little stone half-way house, which is stuck on the
face of the rock at one of the very acute angles of the winding road
overlooking the Bocche, when we came upon one of these freight caravans
plugging laboriously along, with the hope of making Cettinje sometime
the following day. One of the wagons was loaded with kegs of beer, and
it was all too evident that the several treacherous looking drivers
in the party had been indulging their thirst from time to time, to
the appreciable loss to the person to whom the kegs were consigned.
As we approached, our driver stopped his nondescript team and had a
few confiding words with the freighters. Together they succeeded in
puncturing one of the kegs with a long wire nail; then a horse bucket
was cut from its swinging position under one of the wagons. This was
rinsed out with a goodly supply of beer tapped from the punctured
cask, and refilled, to moisten the already well-lubricated throats of
all concerned. How many full casks reached their destination after
several days spent on the road would make a nice problem for a class
in algebra. If the freighters met many drivers as thirsty as ours it
is a question whether or not it would have been best for them to have
appeared in Cettinje at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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