Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
At a given signal each one stands on a single stilt, the other leg
raised, the second stilt thrown back over the shoulder; and by
prodigies of balancing they dance harder than ever, like marionettes
whose springs are out of order, whose mechanism is about to break down.
Then bars two metres high are brought in, and they jump over them,
every one taking part, including the princesses, the old men, and
the genii, all keeping up an incessant play of fans and a beating of
tambourines.
At last, when they can hold out no longer and go and lean against the
porticoes among the old acacias and willows, another company just
like the first comes forward and begins again, to the same tune, a
similar dance. They represent the same persons, the same genii, the
same long-bearded gods, the same beautiful mincing dames. In their
accoutrements, so unknown to us, and with their curiously wrinkled
faces, these dancers are the incarnation of ancient mythological dreams
dreamed long ago in the dark ages by human beings at an infinite
distance from us; and these customs are handed down from generation
to generation, and from one end of the country to the other in that
unchanging way in which rites, forms, and property in China are
invariably transmitted.
This fête, this dance, extremely novel as it is, retains its village,
its rustic character, and is as simple as any truly rural entertainment.
They finally cease jumping the bars, and now two terrible beasts come
forth, one red and one green. They are big, heraldic dragons at least
twenty metres long, with the raised heads, the yawning mouths, the
horns, and claws, and horrible squinting eyes that everybody knows.
They advance rapidly, throwing themselves onto the shoulders of the
crowd with the undulations of a reptile; they are light, however,
made of pasteboard, covered with some sort of stuff, and each beast
is supported in the air by means of sticks, by a dozen skilful young
men who have a subtle knack of giving to their movements a serpentine
effect. A sort of master of the ballet precedes them, holding in his
hand a ball which they never lose sight of, and which he uses as the
leader of an orchestra uses his baton, to guide the writhings of the
monsters.
The two great creatures content themselves with dancing before me, to
the sound of flutes and gongs, in the centre of the circle of Chinese,
which is extended in order to make room for them. At length the
struggle becomes quite terrible, while the gongs and cymbals rage. They
become entangled, they roll on top of one another, they drag their long
rings in the dust, and then, all at once, with a bound they get up,
as though in a passion, and stand shaking their enormous heads at one
another, trembling with rage. The ballet master, nervously moving his
director's ball, throws himself about and rolls his ferocious eyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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