Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
The dust on the crowd grows thicker and thicker, and on the invisible
dragon-bearers; it rises in clouds, rendering this battle between the
red beast and the green beast almost fantastic. The sun burns as in a
tropical country, and yet the sad Chinese April, anæmic from such a
drought following the frozen winter, is barely heralded by the tender
color of the few tiny leaves on the old willows and acacias of the
court.
After breakfast some of the mandarins of the plain from the
neighboring villages arrive, preceded by music and bringing me
pastoral offerings,--baskets of preserved grapes, baskets of pears,
live chickens in cages, and a jar of rice-wine. They wear the official
winter head-dress, with a raven's quill, and have on gowns of dark silk
with squares of gold embroidery, in the centre of which is depicted,
surrounded by clouds, the invariable stork flying toward the moon.
They are nearly all dried-up old men with gray beards and drooping
gray moustaches. We have great _tchinchins_ with them, profound bows,
extravagant compliments, handshakings in which one feels the scratch of
over-long nails, the touch of thin old fingers.
At two o'clock I remount with my men and start off through the
dilapidated streets, preceded by the same procession as upon my
arrival. The gongs are muffled, the heralds sound their cries. Behind
me my host, the mandarin, follows in his palanquin, accompanied by the
troop on stilts and by the enormous dragons.
As we leave the village, and enter the deep tunnelled gateway where
the crowd is already assembled to see us, the whole procession is
engulfed with us,--the long, striding princesses, the gods who play the
cithern or the tambourine, the red beast, and the green beast. In the
semi-obscurity of the arched way, to the noise of all the citherns and
of all the gongs, in the clouds of black dust which blind us, there is
a compact _mêlée_, where our horses prance and jump, troubled by the
noise and terrified by the two frightful monsters undulating above our
heads.
After conducting us a quarter of a league beyond the walls, the
procession leaves us at last, and we find silence again on the burning
plain, where we have about twenty kilometres to go through the dust
and the "yellow wind" before reaching Y-Tchou, another old walled city
which is to be our halting-place for the night.
Not until to-morrow do we arrive at the tombs.
III
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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