Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
All at once I leap to the ground with an instinctive longing for
activity, anxious to move, to walk. Horrors! At a turn in the path as
I am running fast without looking where I am going, I almost step on
something in the form of a cross,--a naked corpse lying face downward
with extended arms, half buried in the mud and of a corresponding
color; the dogs or the crows, or some Chinese who wanted the queue,
have taken the scalp, leaving the cranium white and minus hair or skin.
It grows colder each day as we get farther away from the sea, and the
plain begins gradually to slope upward.
Junks pass as they did yesterday, going down the river in files with
military stores, and are under the care of soldiers of all the nations
of Europe. Then come long intervals of solitude, during which no living
thing appears in this region of millet and reeds. The wind that blows
more and more bitterly is healthful; it dilates the chest, and for the
moment redoubles life. So we march along between the sorghos and the
river, on the everlasting frosty path that leads to Pekin, without
fatigue, without any desire to hurry, but always ahead of the solemn
Chinamen, who, tugging at their ropes, continue to draw our floating
house, keeping up their pace with the regularity of machines.
There are a few trees now on the banks, willows with very green leaves
of a variety unknown to us; they seem untouched by the autumn, and
their beautiful color is in striking contrast to the rusty tones of the
grass and the dying sorghos. There are gardens too,--abandoned gardens
that belonged to hamlets that have been burned; our Chinamen sometimes
send one of their number on a marauding expedition, and he brings back
armfuls of vegetables for our meals.
Osman and Renaud, as we pass by ruined houses, sometimes pick up
articles which they think necessary for the embellishment of our
dwelling,--small mirrors, carved seats, lanterns, even bunches of
artificial flowers made of rice paper, which may have adorned the
headdresses of massacred or fleeing Chinese ladies, and which they
naïvely use to decorate the walls of the room. The interior of our
sarcophagus soon takes on an air of distinction quite droll and
barbaric.
It is astonishing how soon we accustom ourselves to the perfectly
simple life on the junk, an existence of healthy fatigue, devouring
appetites, and heavy sleep.
Toward the evening of this day the mountains of Mongolia, those which
tower above Pekin, begin to appear on the distant horizon, on the very
border of this infinitely level land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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