Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
We come first to the street of the China merchants, great warehouses
where the products of the Canton manufactories were stored. It must
have been a fine street judging from the carved and gilded but ruined
façades which remain. To-day the yawning shops, almost demolished,
seem to vomit onto the highway their heaps of broken fragments. One
walks on precious enamel decorated with brilliant flowers, for it
literally covers the ground so that one crushes it in passing. There
is no knowing whose work this was; it was already done when our troops
arrived. But it must have taken whole days of furious attack with boots
and clubs to reduce it all to such small bits; jars, plates, cups,
are ground to atoms, pulverized, together with human bones and hair.
At the back of these warehouses the coarser wares occupied a sort of
interior court. These courts with their old walls are particularly
lugubrious this evening, in the dying light. In one of them we found
a mangy dog trying to drag something from underneath a pile of broken
plates--it was the body of a child whose skull had been broken. The dog
began to eat the flesh that was left on the legs of the poor dead thing.
There was no one to be seen in the long devastated streets where the
framework of the houses, as well as the tiles and the bricks, had
tumbled down. Crows croaked in the silence. Horrible dogs who feed
on the dead fled before us, hanging their tails. We had glimpses of
Chinese prowlers, wretched-looking creatures, trying to find something
to steal, or of some of the dispossessed timidly creeping along the
walls attempting to find out what has become of their homes.
The sun is already low, and the wind is rising as it does every night.
We shiver with the sudden cold. Empty houses fill the shadows.
These houses are all of considerable extent, with recesses, a
succession of courts, rock work, basins, and melancholy gardens.
Crossing the threshold, guarded by the ever-present granite monsters
worn by the rubbing of hands, one finds oneself in an endless series of
apartments. The intimate details of Chinese life are touchingly and
graciously revealed by the arrangement of potted plants, flowerbeds,
and little balconies where bindweed and other vines are trained.
Here, surrounded with playthings, is a poor doll, which doubtless
belonged to some child whose head has been broken; there a cage hangs
with the bird still in it, dried up in one corner with its feet in the
air.
Everything is sacked, removed, or destroyed; furniture is broken, the
contents of drawers thrown about the floors, papers, blood-stained
clothing, Chinese women's shoes spattered with blood, and here and
there limbs, hands, heads, and clumps of hair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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