Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
The Lake of the Lotus! I had pictured it as sung by the Chinese poets,
of an exquisite limpidity with great calices open to an abundance of
water, a sort of aquatic plain covered with pink flowers, pink from one
end to the other. And this is it!--This slime and this gloomy swamp,
covered with dead leaves turned brown by the frost! It is infinitely
larger than I supposed, this lake made by the hand of man; it goes on
and on toward nostalgic shores, where ancient pagodas appear among the
old trees, under the gray sky.
The Marble Bridge! Yes, this long, white arch supported by a series of
white pillars, this exceedingly graceful curve, the balustrades with
monsters' heads,--this all corresponds to the idea I had of it; it is
very sumptuous and very Chinese. I had not, however, foreseen the two
dead bodies decaying in their robes, which lay among the reeds at the
entrance to the bridge.
The large dead leaves on the lake are really lotus-leaves; I recognize
them now that I see them near at hand, and remember to have seen
similar ones--but oh, so green and fresh--on the ponds of Nagasaki
or of Yeddo. And there once must have been here the effect of an
uninterrupted covering of pink blossoms; their fading stems rise now by
thousands above the slime.
They will undoubtedly die, these fields of lotus, which for centuries
have charmed the eyes of the emperors, for the lake is almost empty; it
is the Allies who have turned its water into the canal that connects
Pekin with the river, in order to re-establish this route which the
Chinese had dried up for fear of its serving the purpose of the
invaders.
The Marble Bridge, white and solitary, leads us across to the other
bank of the lake, very narrow at this point, and there I shall find
the Palace of the North, which is to be my residence. At first I do
not see that there are enclosures within enclosures, all with great
gates, dilapidated and in ruins. A dull light falls from the wintry sky
through opaque clouds that are filled with snow.
In the centre of a gray wall there is a breach where an African
chasseur is on guard; on one side lies a dead dog, on the other a pile
of rags and filth breathing a corpse-like odor. This, it appears, is
the entrance to my palace.
We are black with dust, powdered with snow, and our teeth are
chattering with cold, when we finally get down from our chariot in
a court encumbered with débris, where my comrade, Captain C., the
aide-de-camp, comes to meet me. With an approach like this, one well
might wonder if the promised palace were not chimerical.
Just back of this court there is, however, the first appearance of
magnificence. Here and there is a long gallery of glass, light,
elegant, and apparently intact, amid so much destruction. Through
the panes one has glimpses of gold, porcelains, and imperial silks
with designs of dragons and clouds. This is one corner of the palace,
completely hidden until you are right upon it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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