The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
We are now concerned with the doings only of Mr. Mallory and Mr.
Bullock, who were to attempt the North Col. In the weeks since their
arrival in the neighbourhood of Everest they had been studying its
contours with the eyes of trained mountaineers. They saw that it was
a great rock mass, "coated often with a thin layer of white powder,
which is blown about its sides, and bearing perennial snow only on
the gentler ledges and on several wide faces less steep than the
rest." They saw that from the point of the North-East shoulder a
more or less broad _arête_ fell northward to the snow col called the
Chang La. If they could reach that snow col the road to the
North-East ridge looked reasonably simple. They had seen that the
Chang La would be very difficult of attainment from the Rongbuk
Glacier, and that was why they had turned their minds to an eastern
approach. Here is their conclusion, in Mr. Mallory's words, reached
about the third week in July: "If ever the mountain were to be
climbed, the way would not lie along the whole length of any one of
its colossal ridges. Progress could only be made along comparatively
easy ground, and anything like a prolonged sharp crest or a series of
towers would inevitably bar the way, simply by the time it would
require to overcome such obstacles. But the North _arête_, coming
down to the gap between Everest and the North Peak, Changtse, is not
of this character. From the horizontal structure of the mountain
there is no excrescence of rock pinnacles in this part, and the steep
walls of rock which run across the north face are merged with it
before they reach this part, which is comparatively smooth and
continuous, a bluntly rounded edge.... The great question before us
now was to be one of access. Could the North Col be reached from the
east, and how could we attain this point?"
We have seen the two climbers as far on their journey as the Lhakpa
La, looking over the East Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col. The
chief difficulty, it was soon evident, would be the wall under the
col, which must be over 500 feet high, and appeared to be very steep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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