The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The transport question must always be difficult. The thousand feet
from the East Bongbuk Glacier to the Chang La, half of which was very
steep, might give trouble to laden coolies, especially earlier in the
season when the ice was uncovered by snow. An advanced base camp on
the Chang La would, of course, be essential if a high camp were to be
made at 26,000 feet. But the physical problem might be regarded as
solved--at any rate as far as the shoulder of the North-East _arête_.
On the physiological question little light had been thrown. The
climbers in September 1921 were all more or less tired from spending
long periods in high camps, and could not be regarded as at the top
of their form. Yet in the case of most members of the party the
process of acclimatization had been rapid, and Mr. Mallory on the
Chang La was remarkably fit. What would happen, however, at the
higher altitudes? The effect of these upon the human body had not
been decided.
The conclusion from the year's work was that while no insuperable
difficulty had been proved in the problem, yet for success there must
be a combination of happy chances in the shape of weather, the
condition of the snow, the endurance of the transport coolies, and
the bodily fitness of the climbers. A second attempt would be
justified, but it could not be regarded with anything like
confidence. The enterprise was seriously and responsibly envisaged,
and no better expression of the spirit of those who undertook it can
be found than in Mr. Mallory's own words: "It might be possible for
two men to struggle somehow to the summit, disregarding every other
consideration. It is a different matter to climb the mountain as
mountaineers would have it climbed. Principles, time-honoured in the
Alpine Club, must, of course, be respected in the ascent of Mount
Everest. The party must keep a margin of safety. It is not to be a
mad enterprise, rashly pushed on regardless of danger. The
ill-considered acceptance of any and every risk has no part in the
essence of persevering courage. A mountaineering enterprise may keep
sanity and sound judgment, and remain an adventure. And of all
principles to which we hold, the first is that of mutual help. What
is to be done for a man who is sick or abnormally exhausted at these
high altitudes? His companions must see to it that he is taken down
at the first opportunity, and with an adequate escort; and the
obligation is the same whether he be sahib or coolie. If we ask a
man to carry our loads up the mountain, we must care for his welfare
at need."
III
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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