The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
They returned to the camp on the col and packed up ten days' rations.
With tremendous difficulty they transported them up to a 15,000-feet
camp on the ridge, where they were on the edge of the big
glacier-filled basin between the two summits. All three found their
health beginning to suffer. The pemmican proved to be impossible
food, giving them all violent stomach pains, and they were forced to
confine themselves to tea and hard-tack. The cold was intense, and
inside the tent, with the alcohol stove burning and the warmth of
three bodies, the temperature at 7.30 p.m. was five degrees below
zero, and three hours later nineteen degrees below zero. "Despite
elaborate precautions," says Mr. Belmore Browne, "I can say in all
honesty that I did not have a single night's normal sleep above
15,000 feet on account of the cold." By this time their appearance
was, as Mr. La Voy said, "sufficient to frighten children into the
straight and narrow path." All were more or less snow-blind, burnt
black, unshaven, with lips, noses, and hands swollen, cracked, and
bleeding.
On 27th June the packs were carried in relays to just under the last
serac, which was the highest point in the big basin. The altitude
was 16,615 feet. Their one comfort was that a snow-field seemed to
lead easily up to the sky-line of the central North-East ridge, and
that from there they saw what appeared to be a reasonable gradient to
the final summit. On 28th June they rested and prepared for their
last effort. They were now convinced that nothing could stop them
except storm. The night was fine, and the weather promised well for
the morrow. The summit appeared to them to be nearly flat with a
slight hummocky rise, which must be the highest point in North
America.
On 29th June they left camp at 6 a.m., moving very quietly and
steadily and conserving their strength. Mr. La Voy and Mr. Belmore
Browne led alternately. Slowly they made their way up the snow
slopes at the rate of about 400 feet an hour. At 18,500 feet they
stopped and congratulated each other, for they had beaten the Duke of
the Abruzzi's record on Mount St. Elias. Presently they were on the
sky-line of the ridge, and looking down on the arena where they had
struggled two years before. Now, for the first time, came a threat
from the weather. The sky was clear to the north, but from the south
a great sea of clouds rolled against the mountain like surf on a
shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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