The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
Yet one journey was taken just before the Great War which must rank
by itself. It told the world nothing that was not known before; but
it had the merit of giving a picture of Mecca and Medina under the
latest conditions--a picture drawn with such vigour and in such
detail that it may fairly claim to have revealed the Holy Cities in a
new light to the ordinary man.
Mr. A. J. B. Wavell greatly distinguished himself in command of Arab
scouts in East Africa in the early part of the Great War, and was
responsible for the brilliant affair at Gazi. In that campaign he
gave his life for his country.* He had been at Winchester, and in
1908, when he made the plan for visiting Mecca, had been living for
some time at Mombasa, where he had acquired Arabic and Swahili, and a
considerable knowledge of Moslem customs. His motive was partly
curiosity, partly, as he says, to accustom himself to Arab ways, with
a view to further explorations in Arabia, and partly in order to
obtain the useful prestige of a Hadji. He chose as his companions a
certain Abdul Wahid, an Arab from Aleppo who was established in
Berlin, and Masaudi, a Mombasa native. The three met at Marseilles
on September 23, 1908. They started in good time, for though the
pilgrimage was not to take place till the beginning of the following
January, Mr. Wavell wanted to go first to Medina, and also to prepare
himself by a preliminary discipline in Eastern life. He managed to
secure a Turkish passport, which described him as one Ali bin
Mohammed, aged twenty-five, a subject of Zanzibar on his way to Mecca.
* He fell on January 8, 1916.
The three found a vessel at Genoa which took them to Alexandria,
where they managed, not without trouble, to get their medicine chest,
pistols, and ammunition past the Customs. They then took passages on
a Khedivial mail ship for Beyrout. Mr. Wavell had feared that the
language difficulty would be serious, but he found it less formidable
than he expected, since the dialects of Arabic are many. He
explained to those who found imperfections in his accent that in
Zanzibar the colloquial language was Swahili and that no one talked
Arabic; and on the few occasions when he had to speak Swahili he
inverted the story, announcing that, having been born in Muscat, his
real language was Arabic. As Sir Richard Burton discovered in his
own journey, it was rare indeed to find any one sufficiently well
acquainted with both languages to find him out. Meantime he had
changed at Alexandria into Arab clothes and shaved his head.
[Illustration: Wavell's Journey to Mecca.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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