The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The party remained four days at Jiddah, visiting among other places
the tomb of Eve, who apparently was about a quarter of a mile in
height, so it was a tiring business to make the necessary
perambulation of her sepulchre. Owing to their behaviour at Yembu
they had acquired much kudos among the pilgrims and had no
difficulties during their stay. The only anxiety was about the
Mombasa Swahilis, and also about a certain Mombasa sheikh who knew
Mr. Wavell and was proposing to go to Mecca that year. As neither
sheikh nor Swahilis arrived, they decided to risk it and go on to
Mecca, after Mr. Wavell had left a letter for the sheikh requesting
him to hold his tongue. They found a Mutowif who was a local agent
of one of the principal Mecca guides, to whom he wrote recommending
them. They never intended to employ this guide, but the
recommendation gave them an excuse to refuse to employ others.
Having taken every precaution they could think of, they prepared for
the last stage of the journey. "Abdul Wahid made a vow that if he
returned safely he would present three dollars to the poor of Jiddah.
We told him we thought he was asking the Almighty to do it too
cheaply and that he had much better make it a sovereign. To our
disgust, when he did get back, he utterly declined to disgorge the
promised sum."
The journey from Jiddah to Mecca can be performed in a day, for it is
only some forty miles. The road is protected by a line of
blockhouses, every mile or so there is a restaurant or a booth for
refreshment, and all day long during the pilgrimage season there is a
continuous caravan. A strange silence broods over everything. There
is no shouting or singing or firing of guns, and the camels move over
the deep soft sand with scarcely a sound, for to the Moslem it is the
approach to the holy of holies. "To him it is a place hardly
belonging to this world, overshadowed like the Tabernacle of old by
the almost tangible presence of the deity. Five times daily
throughout his life has he turned his face towards this city, whose
mysteries he is now about to view with his own eyes. Moreover,
according to the common belief, pilgrimage brings certain
responsibilities and even perils along with its manifold blessings.
Good deeds in Mecca count many thousand times their value elsewhere,
but sin that is committed there will reap its reward in hell." Mr.
Wavell and his companions, decently but simply clad in their bath
towels, approached the city repeating the ceremonial prayers. To one
which began, "O Lord, Who hast brought me in safety to this place, do
Thou bring me safely out again," he said a fervid "Amen."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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