The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
Mecca lies in a deep-cut hollow of the hills, and is not visible till
travellers are at its gates. Presently they found themselves in the
great square which contains the Kaaba, the black covering of which is
in startling contrast with the dazzling white marble of the pavement.
The Kaaba itself is a cube about forty feet square, built of granite
blocks, and let into the wall is a great black stone. This stone is
believed to have fallen from heaven, which it probably did, as it is
clearly a meteorite. Barefooted, the little party moved round it the
requisite seven times, chanting the proper prayers. Then a small
circular patch of hair was shaved from their heads, and the first
part of the ceremony was over.
Mecca was then under the semi-independent rule of Sherif Hussein,
and, on the whole, seemed to be well governed; but the problem of the
municipal authorities in looking after the vast crowd of pilgrims was
no easy one. As at Medina, every race on earth was represented
there. Mr. Wavell was most struck by the Javanese, who were present
in great numbers, for there was then a strong Islamic revival in the
Far East. The party found comfortable lodgings in a quiet street,
and, as at Medina, went much into society, owing to the wide
acquaintance of Abdul Wahid. Mecca is one of the few places
remaining where there is an open slave-market, and female slaves may
be bought for prices ranging from £20 to £100, though Georgians and
Circassians fetch more. Masaudi discovered an acquaintance in a boy
called Kepi from Mombasa, whose father had died on the pilgrimage,
and was now left destitute. Kepi was accordingly attached to the
party. Mr. Wavell heard the good news that the Mombasa sheikh, whose
coming he had been warned of, had now written saying that he would
not arrive that year.
[Illustration: View of Mecca. (_By permission of Messrs. Arch.
Constable & Co., Ltd._)]
The time passed pleasantly in sight-seeing and giving and receiving
hospitality. Mr. Wavell gave one dinner to no less than twelve
guests, which, since he had an excellent cook, was very successful.
There are few more curious incidents in the literature of travel than
this party given by a disguised Christian in the Moslem holy of
holies to a company which included Arabs from Bussorah and Mecca, two
Persian merchants, and a Turkish officer from the Bagdad Corps. Most
Western luxuries can be obtained in Mecca, including ice cream,
which, according to Mr. Wavell, is a frozen mixture of tinned milk,
dirty water, and cholera germs! Alcoholic liquor can also be got if
you know where to go for it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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