The fashion changed to _dagges_, a term explained by the 8th of Henry
IV., which forbade "gown or garment cut or slashed into pieces in the
form of letters, rose-leaves, and posies of various kinds, or any
such devices." The fantastic peaked shoes of the fifteenth century,
sometimes only held up by a chain from the girdle, were fair mark for
the lawgiver, and under Edward IV. no less person than a lord was
allowed peaks exceeding two inches. An Act in the same reign banned
the costly head-gear of women. Henry VIII. saw to men's garb as well
as their beliefs. His first Parliament forbade costly apparel, and
there is preserved in the Record Office a letter from Wolsey enclosing
to the King, at his request, the Act of Apparel, with an abstract,
for examination and correction. Exemptions were not unknown: thus,
in 1517, Henry Conway of Bermondsey obtained license to wear "camlet,
velvet, and sarcenet, satin and damask, of green, black, or russet
colour in his clothing." Under Queen Mary common folk who wore silk on
"hat, bonnet, girdle, scabbard, hose, shoes, or spur-leathers," were
grievously amerced. Under Elizabeth the regulations were numberless:
thus there is an act for "uttering of caps, and for true making of
hats and caps." No one was to engage in this business unless he had
been "a prentice or covenant servant" by the space of seven years. No
one under the degree of knight was to wear a cap of velvet. But these
were not pure sumptuary regulations: they were for protection of home
industries. A statute of the previous reign had declared that no man
was to buy more than twelve hats or caps, be it out of this realm;
and a previous Act of Elizabeth had strangely provided that if anyone
sold foreign apparel on credit for longer than eight days to persons
not having £3000 a year he should be without legal remedy against his
debtor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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