The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
"There are likewise pedestals whereon the figures of the Sphinx have
been placed. Two magnificent flights of steps, several hundred feet
long, all of granite, exceedingly well fashioned, and still in their
places, are the only remains of a magnificent temple. In the angle of
this platform, where that temple stood, is the present small church of
Axum, in the place of a former one destroyed by Mohammed Gragne, in the
reign of King David III.; and which was probably the remains of a temple
built by Ptolemy Euergetes, if not the work of times more remote.
"The church is a mean, small building, very ill kept, and full of
pigeons' dung. In it are supposed to be preserved the ark of the
covenant and copy of the law, which Menilek, son of Solomon, is said, in
their fabulous legends, to have stolen from his father Solomon on his
return to Ethiopia; and these were reckoned, as it were, the palladia of
this country.
"There was another relic of great importance. It is a picture of
Christ's head crowned with thorns, said to be painted by St. Luke,
which, upon occasions of the utmost importance, is brought out and
carried with the army, especially in a war with Mohammedans and pagans.
"Within the outer gate of the church, below the steps, are three small
square enclosures, all of granite, with small octagon pillars in the
angles, apparently Egyptian; on the top of which formerly were small
images of the dog-star, probably of metal. Upon a stone in the middle of
one of these the king sits and is crowned, and always has been since
the days of paganism; and below it, where he naturally places his feet,
is a long oblong slab like a hearth, which is not of granite, but of
freestone. The inscription, though much defaced, may be safely restored.
[Greek: PTOLEMAIOU EUERGETOU BASILEÔS]."
Bruce made a sketch of the principal obelisk at Axum. Salt, who also
visited Axum, says: "I went to take a drawing of the obelisk still
erect. I found it to be extremely different from the representation of
it given by Bruce; the ornaments which he is pleased to call triglyphs
and metopes, and guttæ, being most regularly, instead of irregularly,
disposed, as will be seen in my representation of it. I am now perfectly
satisfied that all Bruce's pretended knowledge of drawing is not to be
depended on, the present instance affording a striking example of his
want of veracity and uncommon assurance." Again, Salt says: "From my
account of Axum, it will appear that Bruce's description of 'the
mountain of red marble' of the 'wall, cut out of the same five feet
high,' with its 'one hundred and thirty-three pedestals, on which stood
colossal statues of the dog-star, two of which only were remaining,' and
of the road cut between the wall and the mountain, are statements
contrary to the existing fact, or, at least, so extremely exaggerated as
to cast strong doubts upon his authority."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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