The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Bruce was now anxious, if possible, to proceed to Gondar, the capital of
Abyssinia, and the political events of the day seemed to offer him an
opportunity; for a sort of calm, like that which precedes a storm, had
for the moment spread over the whole country. Ras Michael, having found
that the old King Hatre Hamnes did not suit him as he had expected, his
imbecility being of too sluggish a description, ordered his breakfast
to be poisoned; and, having thus got rid of him, he had just placed
young Tecla Haimanout on the throne of his father. The Abyssinians had
been wearied by a series of events, none of which had been foreseen, and
which had ended in a manner which no one could have expected. Nobody
liked Ras Michael, yet no man deemed it prudent either to speak or act
against him. People therefore waited till he should either conquer or be
conquered by his opponent and enemy, the rebel Fasil.
Of this calm Bruce determined to avail himself; and he accordingly
prepared to take leave of his friend Janni, "whose kindness,
hospitality, and fatherly care had," says Bruce, "never ceased for a
moment." This friend had most favourably recommended Bruce to the
iteghe, or queen-mother, whose daughter, the beautiful Ozoro Esther, was
married to old Ras Michael. He also wrote in Bruce's favour to the ras,
with whom his influence was very great; and, indeed, to all his
acquaintances, Greeks, Abyssinians, and Mohammedans.
On the 17th of January, 1770, Bruce and his party quitted Adowa to
proceed to Gondar, and the following day they reached a plain in which
stood Axum, which is supposed to have been the ancient capital of
Abyssinia. "The ruins of Axum," says Bruce, "are very extensive, but,
like the cities of ancient times, consist altogether of public
buildings. In one square, which I apprehend to have been the centre of
the town, there are forty obelisks, none of which have any hieroglyphics
upon them. There is one larger than the rest still standing, but there
are two still larger than this fallen. They are all of one piece of
granite, and on the top of that which is standing there is a patera
exceedingly well carved in the Greek taste."
"After passing the convent of Abba Pantaleon, called in Abyssinia
'Mantilles,' and the small obelisk situated on a rock above, we
proceeded south by a road cut in a mountain of red marble, having on the
left a parapet wall above five feet high, solid, and of the same
materials. At equal distances there are hewn in this wall solid
pedestals, upon the tops of which we saw the marks where stood the
colossal statues of Sirius, the Latrator Anubis or Dog Star. One hundred
and thirty-three of these pedestals, with the marks of statues just
mentioned, are still in their places; but only two figures of the dog
remained, much mutilated, but of a taste easily distinguished to be
Egyptian. They were composed of granite, but some of them appear to have
been of metal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller — John Shaqi
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