The life and works of Sir Charles Barry — John Shaqi
The life and works of Sir Charles BarryBarry, Alfred
General
The life and works of Sir Charles Barry
Barry, Alfred
Architects -- Great Britain -- Biography; Barry, Charles, 1795-1860
Next morning the travellers went on to Homs, having previously sent a
despatch to the Governor. On their way they met droves of camels and
Bedouin drivers, hastening with all speed to the desert, and cavalry of
the Turkish Governor in pursuit. Several Arabs were killed, and three
heads brought into Homs in triumph. The Governor behaved most
honourably; he felt the danger of provoking the Arabs (for, in fact, out
of this incident arose a petty war), but felt also that his own faith
had been pledged to the Englishmen, and that it must not be violated
with impunity. Some of the money still in his hands he insisted on
returning, and, though full of anxiety as to the consequences of the
affair, he dismissed them with all honour and courtesy. So ended the
only failure, and almost the only serious danger, of their journey.
At Tripoli (June 18th, 1819) Mr. Barry’s engagement with Mr. Baillie
terminated; and they parted with mutual regret. Nothing could have
exceeded the kindness and liberality of Mr. Baillie’s conduct. About 500
drawings, by far the best which have been preserved of Mr. Barry’s
sketches, remained with him, as evidence of the zeal and ability with
which the other part of the contract had been performed.
Mr. Barry returned alone, touching at Cyprus, and thence coasting along
Asia Minor. Rhodes naturally attracted his notice by the curious
contrast of its former and present aspects. The old church of St. John
(then a mosque), the Grand Master’s house still bearing traces of its
original character, the old escutcheons embedded in the walls, spoke of
the days of Christianity and Western civilization. The docks and trade
of the place, engrossed by Greeks and Europeans, and the insolence and
ignorance of the Turkish soldiery, gave a melancholy picture of the
present. At Boudroon (Halicarnassus) he managed, not without difficulty,
to see the famous marbles embedded in the walls. Yerunda brought back a
reminiscence of Egypt by a temple with an avenue of seated figures, 600
yards in length, “clearly Egyptian in origin, but only a feebly executed
copy of the original.” Patmos, at which they next touched, was entirely
Greek. The great convent near the “Cave of the Apocalypse” was the first
object of interest. A good library neglected, with curious MSS. very
carelessly kept, was its reproach; a flourishing Greek school its best
evidence of activity. Thence he made his way to Smyrna, passing the
ruins of Ephesus; and at last (August 16th, 1819) he bade farewell to
the East, and sailed (with Messrs. Godfrey and Wyse) to Malta and
Sicily.
A quarantine of twenty days at Malta left him only time for a hasty
examination of Valetta and its buildings, before passing on to Syracuse.
In Sicily he spent two months of great activity and enjoyment, studying
the superimposed strata of Greek, Roman, Saracenic, and Gothic
architecture, which give a visible epitome of the history of the island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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