The life, letters and work of Frederic Leighton. Volume IIBarrington, Russell, Mrs.
General
The life, letters and work of Frederic Leighton. Volume II
Barrington, Russell, Mrs.
Leighton of Stretton, Frederic Leighton, Baron, 1830-1896
Visited a private tomb near Medinet Haboo, which is full of the
most curious paintings, many of them in excellent preservation,
and representing every sort of domestic and professional
occupation. They are very superior in execution and character to
those of El Kab. In the evening had a dinner on board: Mr. Hale
and friend, Mustafa Aga and the Syoot Consuls (one of whom does
not speak a word of anything but Arabic). I had also invited
Mustafa's younger son, but find that he may not sit down with
his father. (He accompanied me this morning, and insisted on
lunching with the servants; on the other hand, my servant is
addressed as Hosseyn _Effendi_, if you please! and conversed
with as a gentleman. Service appears to be looked upon in an
entirely patriarchal light.) The entertainment went off
successfully, and Ottilio, the Italian waiter, covered himself
with glory by his excellent waiting. After dinner Mr. Hale
received a telegram to the effect that General Grant had been
elected President of the United States, with Mr. Colfax as Vice.
He was in great excitement and delight; we had a recrudescence
of champagne, and gave the new President three cheers in British
fashion. The news had come in _three days_ from Washington to
Thebes! it is marvellous.
_Saturday, 7th._--Went to Karnak. Wilkinson advises the
traveller to see this group of temples last; and wisely, for it
is indeed the crowning glory of all, and must satisfy, if it
does not surpass, the most sanguine expectations. The vast
unfinished propylæa of the large temple prepare one by their
colossal dimensions for the gigantic grandeur of the great
central hall, in which one is at a loss what most to admire--the
originality of the general design, combining, as it does in a
surprising degree, freedom and variety with the gravest
simplicity--the massive and reposeful breadth of the forms or
the exquisite subtlety of the colour. The latter has of course
gained very much from the blending hand of time, and is now of a
most delightful mellowness, but, judging from the better
preserved portions, it must have been at all times of singular
beauty. It seems strange at first that a decoration consisting
entirely of small blots of vivid colour on a white ground, like
butterflies on a wall, can have a _large_ architectural effect;
but, in fact, the _repetition_ over large surfaces of wall and
column restores, through its monotony, the balance of breadth.
The design of this hall is very curious: the great central nave,
flanked on each side by two aisles of the same height as itself,
but of less breadth (diminishing, roughly, in a proportion of
10, 7, 5), runs, as in a Gothic cathedral, perpendicular to the
main entrance; beyond the second aisle, however, on either side,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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