The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
Richard and I were exceedingly comfortable, as we always were,
and it amused us to hear "our boys," as we called our English
fellow-passengers, swearing at the Triestine stewards in Hindostani,
and talking louder and louder in the hopes of being understood. We
used to hear all day shouts of, "Where is Captain Burton? where is
Mrs. Burton?" We were wanted to interpret. We were the connecting link
between Austrian-Lloyd's and the discontented Britishers. But at last
we all became exceedingly jolly. We slept on deck in rows, and read
and talked. In the evening we sang glees and duets. We women abolished
toilette for white tea-gowns.
After a very pleasant time, albeit very rough weather, Richard and I
left the ship at Suez, and were soon surrounded by a little band of
Richard's old friends of Mecca days. We put off, with them, afterwards
to the Arabian shore, to rest after our journey at "Moses' Wells,"
about three miles in the Arabian desert--the scene of poor Palmer,
Gill, and Charington's departure. It was a lovely scene, with its blue
sea, yellow sands, azure sky, and pink and purple mountains. The sun
was hot, but the pure desert air blew in our faces, as we went across
the sand to the picturesque spot. The wells or springs are surrounded
by tropical verdure, intermingled with Fellah huts. The most romantic
spot of all is a single tiny spring, under an isolated palm tree,
standing all alone on a little hillock of sand and desert, far from all
else, as if that tree and that spring had been created for each other
to live alone. It was delightful after India and the rough voyage. We
took our _kayf_ there with the Arabs, who gave us delicious coffee and
_narghílehs_, and we rode camels. We were there at the time of Abdul
Assiz's death.
[Sidenote: _After a Stay in Egypt, to Trieste_.]
After stopping some time at Cairo, Alexandria, and Ramleh, we
embarked for Trieste on another Lloyd's, which carried Jamrach and
his menagerie. During our stay in Cairo, we saw a great deal of poor
Marquis de Compiègne (afterwards shot in a duel), Dr. Schweinfürth, and
Marietta Bey and the Bulak Museum; poor John Wallis, legal Consul, once
editor of the _Tablet_; Baron de Kremer, our old Austrian colleague
at Damascus, afterwards Minister of Finance at Vienna (now dead). We
found the voyage very cold, even in July, after India. We first went
to Candia, passing Gavdo, Cape Spaltra, the two islands Cerigotto and
Cerigo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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