The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
"It is not given to every man to go to Trieste. The fact need not
cause universal regret, inasmuch as the chief Austrian port on the
Adriatic shares with Oriental towns the disagreeable character of
presenting a fair appearance from a distance, and afflicting the
traveller who has become for the time a denizen, with a painful
sense of disenchantment. Perhaps the first glimpse of Trieste owes
something to contrast, as it is obtained after passing through a
desolate stony wilderness called the Karso. As the train glides from
these inhospitable heights towards Trieste, the head of the Adriatic
presents a scene of unrivalled beauty. On the one side rise high,
rugged, wooded mountains, on a ledge of which the rails are laid;
on the other is a deep precipice, at whose base rolls the blue sea,
dotted with lateen sails, painted in every shade of colour, and
adorned with figures of saints and other popular devices. The white
town staring out of the corner covers a considerable space, and places
its villa-outposts high up the neighbouring hills, covered with
verdure to the water's edge.
"Trieste is a polyglot settlement of Austrians, Italians, Slavs, Jews,
and Greeks, of whom the two latter monopolize the commerce. It is a
City dear and unhealthy to live in, over-ventilated and ill-drained.
It might advantageously be called the City of Three Winds. One of
these, the _Bora_, blows the people almost into the sea with its fury,
rising suddenly, like a cyclone, and sweeping all before it; the
second is named the _Scirocco_, which blows the drainage back into the
town; and the third is the _Contraste_, formed by the two first-named
winds blowing at once against each other. Alternating atmospherically
between extremes of heat and cold, Trieste is, from a political point
of view, perpetually pushing the principles of independence to the
verge of disorder.
"Arrived at the railway station, there is no need to call a cab
and ask to be driven to the British Consul's, since, just opposite
the station and close to the sea, rises the tall block of building
in which the Consulate is situated. Somewhat puzzled to choose
between three entrances, the stranger proceeds to mount the long
series of steps lying beyond the particular portal to which he is
directed. There is a superstition, prevalent in the building and
in the neighbourhood, that there are but four stories, including
but one hundred and twenty steps. Whoso, after a protracted climb,
finally succeeds in reaching Captain Burton's landing, will entertain
considerable doubts as to the correctness of the estimate. A German
damsel opens the door, and inquires whether the visitor wants to see
the Gräfin or the Herr Consul.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account